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Karin Wadsack follows the short but sweet "La Rein...
High above the sea of topropes lies a beautiful right-facing corner. This is La Reina ("The Queen"), a short, sustained, and somewhat awkward handcrack with nice edges for the right hand and foot. Scramble up the 4th/low 5th class gully right of Swishbah to the base. This excellent route should not be missed!
A slung horn may be used for the belay.
To descend, scramble off to the west and back around to the base.
Light rack to 1".
BETA PHOTO: Chris "Zero Star" Miller on La Reina
Shana jamming up La Reina. Photo: Mike Morley
Hobbs getting started on La Reina
|By Josh Beck|
Jan 4, 2003
This is a fun, if a bit short lead. A good test for those breaking into 5.9 leading - it's a little steep and pumpy but features solid jams. You'll probably want gear to 2-2.5" though, as I recall it being sustained hands and tight hands, though it's been a while since I've done it.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 4, 2003
You can also get by nicely using just TCUs and small cams up to about a .75 BD, as the crack narrows toward the back.
|By Josh Beck|
Jan 5, 2003
My bad memory I guess ;) Fun route nonetheless. I consider it an "overlooked" route for sure...
|By The Gray Tradster|
Jan 14, 2004
Good short steep jaming exercise. Most of the flakes are creakers so place pro accordingly.
|By Isaac T.|
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 26, 2006
It is about to get alot harder when i climbed it i felt two key hand holds move quite a bit.
|By Darren D.|
Mar 25, 2007
Careful with some of those flakes...a few are a bit flexy. Small gear works well. A bit short, or you could continue uprun-out un-protected chossy 5.4 jugs. If that's your sort of thing.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 7, 2010
Soloed this onsight, and the flakes up high are distressingly thin and creaky, definitely not recommended for your solo circuit. You can stay off the flakes altogether, but it makes the route a bit harder, perhaps 10b.
|By Trad Nanny|
Dec 22, 2012
Awkward, skip this unless you just must. Belay is weird too, careful not to let the rope suck the cams into the crack if the follower falls. I put a cam in low and then saddled the hump with the rope going down groove to keep it out of the crack.
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Feb 18, 2013
The start got my attention, but it seemed to ease from there. The flakes were a bit suspect, but not super scary or anything. I can understand them being more disconcerting on a solo. I just tossed my rope at the top of the crack and ran the belay strand over that to avoid it getting sucked down. Worthwhile tick.