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Magdalena Inferior
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La Que Faltava S 

La Que Faltava 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 360'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: A. Cardona A. Montesinos
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: Bobrunning on Dec 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: La Que Hi Faltava - note the picture was taken fro...

Description 

The route is four pitches, with the bottom three at a grade of 5.6. It is well bolted with what appears to be newer bolts. All bolts for this route have been painted green.

P1 - 30 meters - Is the hardest pitch. It is 5.6 sustained throughout. There are 9 bolts and three at the anchor. There was rap rings on the anchor.

P2 - 15 meters - There are three bolts listed on the topo for pitch two. I did not find the anchor for pitch two. I ended up linking pitch two and three.

P3 - 55 meters - There are eight bolts. The anchor has three bolts.

P4 - 20 meters - There are two bolts. The second did not have a hanger. This was easy climbing ~5.1 or 5.2.

Location 

There are four routes on the east face. This is the second from the left. The bolts are painted green. The route to the right of it has yellow painted bolts (Rantanplan).

Protection 

Solid bolts


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By Bobrunning
From: Madison, wi
Dec 22, 2010

Here is a website that contains an English topo for the area.

rocktopo.com/index.php?opcion=...
By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Jun 12, 2013

I think that the anchors may have been updated and the route may have been rebolted. There were far more bolts on P1 than indicated in this site or in the 2009 "Montserrat Rock Climbs Sant Benet & Gorros". I also didn't find a short 2nd pitch. It appears as though someone sensibly evened out the lengths of the 4 pitches by moving the anchors. Over all this is an okay introductory/warm-up climb for the area (solid rock, very frequent bolts, easy climbing and a nice view from the summit) but the climbing itself is a bit monotonous.
By David Shuey
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 11, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Since rebolting, the route has been evened out to 3 almost exactly 35m pitches. P1 is by far the gem pitch of the route with a sustained 5.6 difficulty throughout. 5.6, 35m, 3 bolt rap anchor. P2 is easier but still fun romping your way up big cobbles. 5.4, 35m, 3 bolt rap anchor. P3 is more or less a scramble to the summit. 5.3, 30m, 3 bolt rap anchor. With a 70m rope you can bail or descend from anchor of the routes anchors, but the normal descent uses a double rope rappel off the E face towards the gully trail.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Sep 3, 2014

There is also a very good .9ish? route to the left of this one painted in yellow bolts!