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La Petite Illusion 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Patrick E.?
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jan 7, 2009
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Description 

Move up onto the tuffa and struggle up this. Think that it must be over because of how hard this was. Promptly be disapointed because the headwall is just as hard as the tuffa. A sandbag at the grade but even more so when you find out that it was originally graded 5.11c.


Location 

Look for the single 30' tall tuffa near the middle of the wall, to the right of the steeper stuff and left of the easy routes.


Protection 

Bolts and a bolted anchor.



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By Zach Alberts
From: Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Feb 19, 2012

There is now an extension of this route which adds a half star in my book. Continue past the first set of anchors past 4 or 5 more bolts of 11b or 11c face climbing to a fixed anchor. YOU NEED an 80m rope to reach the ground from the second set of anchors. I'd bring about 16 quickdraws.