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la mer bleu et profonde
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Calanque de l'Eissadon
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la mer bleu et profonde S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 774 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Benj84 on Oct 5, 2014 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley |
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Access Issue: Summer closures
Details
See the following site for restriction during the summer: calanques13.com/acces-calan…
Description
absolutely beautiful climbing with some of the best quality waterdrop limestone you could ever hope to find.
from the first relay just follow the bolts, its pretty self explanatory, just be sure you're starting in the right route !
pitch 1:5b 40meters easy face climbing from the relay, treat yourself to a dip in the mediterranean before you set off !
pitch 2: 5c 45 meters
pitch 3: 5b 20 meters
pitch 4: 6a 20 meters starts in a spectacular slab then has a brief diedre and finishes with some face climbing
pitch 5: 6a+ 25 meters immaculate face climbing with a brief overhang relay is two bolts on a boulder up top.
I wouldn't recommend linking 3-4 because there is drag would be horrible, but 4-5 are doable if your comfortable in the grade.
I found the grades to be pretty bloated, I didn't see anything that felt harder on this route than 5c
from the first relay just follow the bolts, its pretty self explanatory, just be sure you're starting in the right route !
pitch 1:5b 40meters easy face climbing from the relay, treat yourself to a dip in the mediterranean before you set off !
pitch 2: 5c 45 meters
pitch 3: 5b 20 meters
pitch 4: 6a 20 meters starts in a spectacular slab then has a brief diedre and finishes with some face climbing
pitch 5: 6a+ 25 meters immaculate face climbing with a brief overhang relay is two bolts on a boulder up top.
I wouldn't recommend linking 3-4 because there is drag would be horrible, but 4-5 are doable if your comfortable in the grade.
I found the grades to be pretty bloated, I didn't see anything that felt harder on this route than 5c
Location
From col de la gardiole head to the col de l'eissadon following the brown markings down to the calanque de l'oule, then follow the green markings toward devenson.
Once you're over the cirque head to the far end and pull a 40meter rappel down to the overgrown platform and follow the set ropes across to the east side of the platform, there you will have another rappel to take down to the level of the sea and a class 4 traverse to the first relay of la mer bleu et profonde.
get a copy of the ffme topo for more complete description (it was a couple of years ago that I did this route.)
Once you're over the cirque head to the far end and pull a 40meter rappel down to the overgrown platform and follow the set ropes across to the east side of the platform, there you will have another rappel to take down to the level of the sea and a class 4 traverse to the first relay of la mer bleu et profonde.
get a copy of the ffme topo for more complete description (it was a couple of years ago that I did this route.)
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