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La Melange S 
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La Melange 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Dave Pegg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 27, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is the second route in from the left on the east-facing wall as you head up the slidey slope after rounding the bend of the big arete. It climbs through some pockets down low, onto a slab, into a tan/orange scoop, then over a small roof onto grey, water-droppy stone.

    This probably climbs more like a Shelf Road route than anything, with lots of vertical trickery and small crimps. Through the scoop, beware of the loose-looking rock off to the right, which is ... loose.

    Though it's a bit runout to the cold-shut anchors (shared in common with the 11c to the right), I didn't want to add another bolt and infringe on that line. The climbing is 5.8 or so if you pick the path of least resistance above the last bolt, heading straight up, then diagonalling right on big incuts. In the shade all afternoon after one or so.

    Protection 

    10 quickdraws


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