La Lune 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Bob Horan |
| Submitted By: | Taylor Roy on Jul 8, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: La Lune, 12d/13a. First ascent by Bob Horan in 19...
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Poison Ivy Alert MORE INFO >>>
From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description La Lune combines beauty, position, and pain to create a route that beckons and repels at the same time.
The striking black and tan overhang is slashed with numerous discontinuous cracks and seams, creating a gorgeous effect and a very unique style of climbing. With cars racing through the canyon, the river raging below, and the steep terrain above, the exposure is unavoidable as you clip the first bolt 100 feet above the canyon floor.
Trending slightly left along the most generous, and amazingly excuciating features, this route builds in difficulty and pain as you approach the top of the overhang. After pulling the lip continue up a dirty, unprotected 5.8 crack for 15 feet to the poorly placed anchors.
It's worth noting that the first ascentionist redpointed this route using preplaced traditional gear. So if anyone is looking for a hard, painful project that is still waiting for a lead while placing the gear- here it is!
If not for a some glue and the huge gobies on my fingers, this route would easily get four stars.
Location This route is located on an overhanging, black and tan streaked wall above Minutia, which could be used to approach La Lune. It's also possible to scramble up and right of La Lune and make some very exposed 5.6 moves to gain the base of La Lune. There is a two bolt anchor just before these moves on a large ledge and roping up is highly recommended, as a fall would certainly result in death. Once at the base of La Lune, there are two vertically staggered bolts that can be used as a belay anchor.
Protection This route is fully bolted, including an inconveniently placed two bolt anchor, which is about 5 feet to the right of the finishing crack.
Some medium-sized Camalots could be used to protect the easy, but dirty, crack climbing between the last bolt and the chains.
Bob Horan on 1st free, trad ascent of La Lune.
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Looking down on La Lune's overhanging crack system...
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 14, 2009
| Was this actually lead only on pre-placed gear or was it lead placing the gear?
I ask because in the photo of Bob H with the caption stating the FFA, he clearly has a bit of gear on his harness, which is pressumably there to be placed higher on the route. |
By Pinklebear
Oct 14, 2012
| A Metolius No. 7 (BD No. 2 Camalot) was nice for the upper crack. I climbed level with the anchors to a no-hands at the top of the wall, downclimbed back to the cam, pulled it, and lowered off a biner that's been left on bolt 5. This saves your rope over the lip and the headache of getting out right to the anchor.
Cool climb! Painful while working the beta (maybe tape your pinkies) but then not so painful when you figure out the sequences. Airy but safe. Enjoy! |
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