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This route is on the right side of the wall, just before the roof starts. Good holds all the way up, but shorter people may find a couple of the moves a bit reachy.
You'll need 4 quickdraws to get to the anchor (now above the lip). Although there are 2 bolts at the anchor (right at the lip at the top of the route), only one of them has a hanger and chain on it. I like to see 2 bolts at every anchor, but I still used this one anyways.
Jun 25, 2002
I actually thought this was harder than "Lawsuit," which is rated 10b! More overhanging & reachy. Fun once you figured out how to get to all the bolts (the 3rd is a bit far out).
|By chris deulen|
Oct 14, 2005
Apologies to Mr. Nelson, but I just hate this route. I like the majority of things he's put up, but this is just rot in my opinion.
|By Robbie the Dog|
Aug 21, 2006
This route can be a bit of a pain to TR, or to lower off. the crack about a foot left of the 4th (last) bolt can snag your rope quite well. A very short draw here (or a biner) will keep the rope from getting snagged.
The rest of it was fun.
Oct 24, 2006
So, yeah that "crack" definitely will snag your [rope] HARD CORE! To the point where I had to reclimb the entire route get to the top, and unsnag it, then wrap off the climb being careful not to get the rope caught or else it will wedge itself so far in that you are unable to get it out.
Jul 13, 2008
Good route to begin learning overhangs. As others have mentioned, be very careful of the rope eating crack. There was a piece of cut rope still jammed in it today.
|By Dan Stackhouse|
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 1, 2009
If you clip your rope into a carabiner on the 4th bolt as you come down, it will keep it out of the crack.
Apr 20, 2010
Yea..that damn crack + my buddy's thin rope. I had to set up a pulley system to get that be-otch out.
Apr 1, 2012
The anchor has been moved above the lip since the description for this was written (so you climb up onto the ledge).
Left a biner on the top bolt to keep the rope out of the rope eating crack. Hopefully nobody takes it thinking its a bail biner - it makes getting down much nicer.
|By Matt C|
May 6, 2012
Thanks for leaving a directional biner! Unfortunately someone must have mistaken it for a bail biner, as you feared, because it wasn’t there yesterday.