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> La Tapia
La Jungle en Folie (6c)
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in La Tapia
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La Jungle en Folie (6c) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Otro ladrillo en the wall linkup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | M. Piola & G. Hopfgartner December 1990 |
| Page Views: | 530 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Jared Spaulding on Mar 27, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
A hard slab route that is well protected with bolts and has some quality crack climbing as well. All pitches are relatively short
P1 Jam a 5.8ish handcrack to a nice ledge with a three bolt anchor. The start can be direct or slightly to the right with a shallow left facing diehederal for 15 feet to an undercling left and then up the crack.
P2 Continue up the crack in the corner moving left as it peters out. Clip a bolt on the slab traverse left, then up 10 feet before underclinging, stemming, smearing, and swearing (6c) back right, with bolts and gear before a strenous and awkward move to a slabby belay at a two bolt anchor.
P3 A hard slab move (6c) right off the belay (it can easily be A0ed through) to face climbing and thinly protected crease to a left facing corner. Up corner, moving right to a bolt then further right and up a crack to a two bolt anchor at a small stance 20 feet below where the crack goes through a roof.
P4 Jam crack up and through roof (6b) with thin flared hands(?), continuing up and moving left past a bolt and up a wider hand crack (steep) to a two bolt anchor at a nice ledge.
Descent: With two ropes it is possible to rap straight down the face in two almost full length rappels. Other wise reverse the route, though I don't think the bolted belays were set up with rings for rappelling. Best to bring two ropes and go straight down the face.
P1 Jam a 5.8ish handcrack to a nice ledge with a three bolt anchor. The start can be direct or slightly to the right with a shallow left facing diehederal for 15 feet to an undercling left and then up the crack.
P2 Continue up the crack in the corner moving left as it peters out. Clip a bolt on the slab traverse left, then up 10 feet before underclinging, stemming, smearing, and swearing (6c) back right, with bolts and gear before a strenous and awkward move to a slabby belay at a two bolt anchor.
P3 A hard slab move (6c) right off the belay (it can easily be A0ed through) to face climbing and thinly protected crease to a left facing corner. Up corner, moving right to a bolt then further right and up a crack to a two bolt anchor at a small stance 20 feet below where the crack goes through a roof.
P4 Jam crack up and through roof (6b) with thin flared hands(?), continuing up and moving left past a bolt and up a wider hand crack (steep) to a two bolt anchor at a nice ledge.
Descent: With two ropes it is possible to rap straight down the face in two almost full length rappels. Other wise reverse the route, though I don't think the bolted belays were set up with rings for rappelling. Best to bring two ropes and go straight down the face.
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