While a small area, and one composed of just a single cliff band, La Garita Creek warrants listing as a distinct area because it is a fully separate drainage system requiring an additional drive from Penitente. The main cliff wall faces South and gets great sun most of the day. Climbing is actually a bit longer than at many of the other areas in the San Luis Valley, however, that amounts to not more than 70 ft at the highest point. The main cliff is very nice rhyolyte featured with edges and pockets. Presently, there are close to a dozen routes on the wall with the potential to add many more. The La Garita B&B recently changed ownership, and it is now the La Garita Creek Ranch (Dude Ranch). Take a little care in climbing here. My last trip was in 2000, and we just walked in and climbed, however, the owners of the Dude Ranch may have jurisdiction to evict whomsoever they wish, so keep a low profile - the climbing is worth it. The ranch still functions as a B&B for those in need of showers and good food, and a phone call (719 754 2533) will ensure a day of trouble free climbing.
Head for Penitente Canyon via US 285 and the G-road into La Garita. Drive South 1.5 miles from the Penitente Canyon turn off on the unpaved road 38 to a pull-out parking space on the right side of the road. If you come to the road for the La Garita B&B, you have gone a tad too far. Take the trail West out of the parking area to the obvious cliff band that sits just above La Garita Creek.
Climb a beautifully featured wall to the right of the fence. Pockets and edges abound, but this steep wall just continues to amp up the pump. Crimpy and sustained as it is, Pocket Plethora is one the easiest routes on this wall. Most of the climbing runs 12a to 12d, so Pocket may be the only good warm up. For the isolation, ease of approach, and number of difficult routes, it is hard to beat a day at La Garita. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Anyone been here lately? I looked for the routes a few days ago but couldn't find them. Either they have be removed or the climbs now lie in what is private property with posted no trespassing signs. Either way, some info from anyone would be great.