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 ADVANCED
Notch Peak
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Appetite for Destruction T 
Book of Saturday T,S 
Further On Up The Road T 
La Fin du Monde T 
Western Hardman T 

La Fin du Monde 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Shewell Jim Howe
Page Views: 5,291
Submitted By: Jim Howe on Mar 9, 2007

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routes on the upper N face

Description 

This striking arete bounds the right(west)edge of the Upper North face of Notch peak. It offers more sun, maybe less rockfall hazard since it is on an arete. Two of the belays are directly on the crest of the arete giving nice views into the valley and across the dark North face. Cool! It is graded 5.10 but is similar in difficulty to Book of Saturdays. with the crux being in the same sandy band of rock that cuts through the wall. The arete rises in 3 distinct sections. The route is also known as "Pillars of Faith" following the religious theme. It was put up with traditional ground up ethics. a variation "road to perdition" at 5.10+ is a nice technical finish (3 final pitches) to keep the excitment alive. Tommie and I put this variation in by rappelling in from the top (pre-inspection/cleaning) and leading out while placing gear and bolts, hence, "Road to Perdition".

Location 

It is best to approach via the Lower N face routes (20 minute walk). But for a more casual outing, you can also also approach as for Book of Saturdays. It is best to rappel down BOS after summiting, it will make the hike out easy, and avoid a walk back under the face.

Protection 

10mm Stainless bolts, minimum of 1 set of cams from tcu's to 3.5". quickdraws/runners. expect some runout climbing on looseness (usual Notch peak fare). See topo for details


Photos of La Fin du Monde Slideshow Add Photo
Scrambling over to pitches 7-9 and the top
Scrambling over to pitches 7-9 and the top
Looking up at Pitches 4-6 of La Fin du Mundu
Looking up at Pitches 4-6 of La Fin du Mundu
Pulling through the 10c crux of Pitch 4
Pulling through the 10c crux of Pitch 4
The final 200 ft of scrambling to the top of Notch Peak via La Fin du Mundu
The final 200 ft of scrambling to the top of Notch...
Pitch 1 of La Fin du Mundu
Pitch 1 of La Fin du Mundu
topo of La Fin.
BETA PHOTO: topo of La Fin.

Comments on La Fin du Monde Add Comment
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By sooba
Mar 15, 2007

makes a pleasant mountain day ... not as commiting as the other routes.... and still get to the top.... then rap book of saturdays. (90 mins fair estimate if you know the raps to get down Book of Saturdays). You can easily Rap la Fin from top of pitch 4 (maybe 5), but after that it gets lower angled and involved to rap.
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Jun 20, 2013

Climbed this in a party of 3 on 6/17. We linked pitches 1 & 2, as well as 4 & 5, but watch out for rope drag. The crux moves of p4 are well bolted.

Pitch 6 was very very exposed and cool, dead vertical rock with lots of big hollow sounding huecos, the best on the route I thought. Rapping after this pitch would be possible but you'd be showered with rocks and probably get your rope stuck.

Pitch 8 had some extremely loose sections--at one point at least 50 lbs of rocks came fell down a little gully I was climbing. Routefinding was challenging for me on this pitch, and good pro was sparse but the climbing was easy.

With better rock quality this route would be ****. Feel free to PM me if you want a pitch-by-pitch spraydown
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

After pulling the crux moves past the bolts on P4 go left around the arete. The guidebook by James Garret mentions a piton but I didn't see one. What I DID see was another bolt with a long sling on it to my right (off route). The bolt tempted me that way and I succumbed. The rock above the bolt is terrible. Sandy, loose, bad pro - don't go to that bolt. After the crux moves head left wherever it seems easiest, I doubt it makes a whole lot of difference exactly where, around the arete and onto the face.
By Jim Howe
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 24, 2014

Sam, hope you had a good adventure and nice photo additions. Makes me want to get back out there.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Apr 26, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Jim - it was an awesome adventure. Everything from the hike in to the raps down the N face were pretty memorable. Great line as well, beautiful positioning with some awesome sections of climbing. Thanks for putting it up! My partner added some of his pics to the page for posterity.
By Jordan Moore
From: Boulder, co
Jun 16, 2014

What are the conditions on Notch Peak like in the summer, and more specifically La Fin du Monde?