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Wyoming
> Laramie Area
> Vedauwoo
> Blair (overview)
> Lower Blair I,…
> Lower Blair III
La Femme Takeda
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Lower Blair III
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A Dream of Fat Antelope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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A Horse Will Have To Do T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arete Already T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bat Bomb aka Project X-Ray T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Bragging About Jesus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bullwinkle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Damit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Five Finger Discount T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hard to Believe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Inconvenient Angles T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inferno Fog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inner Notch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Intimidation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jogging Direct T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jogging to Vedauwoo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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La Femme Takeda T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Ledge of the World, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Middle Notch T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Outer Dark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Outer Notch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Penetration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Putter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Random Crystals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scratch the Surface T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sketch Palsy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Son of a Wanted Man T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Suit, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Take 5 T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unicorn Exterminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unremembered T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Cedar Wright |
| Page Views: | 1,637 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Cedar Wright on Jul 28, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This is an overhanging finger-to-flared, thin hand crack with a cool, but unprotected boulder problem start on a lone boulder/tower. If you send this without tape and don't gobie, find me and I'll buy you a bear and a high-five.
Pete Takeda who has climbed in the Woo for years, turned me on to this challenging little rig, and this is one of the legendary Takeda's many nicknames. He had tried this thing on a few occasions but never managed to lead it clean. He generously turned the line over to me, and I managed to barely scrap up it second go.
This is the sort of climb that seems to pack an eighty-foot climbing experience into only forty feet of burly crack. The start is 11+ and unprotected for about ten feet, so have your belayer spot til then, and then make sure every piece counts, because you are close to the ground.
Pete Takeda who has climbed in the Woo for years, turned me on to this challenging little rig, and this is one of the legendary Takeda's many nicknames. He had tried this thing on a few occasions but never managed to lead it clean. He generously turned the line over to me, and I managed to barely scrap up it second go.
This is the sort of climb that seems to pack an eighty-foot climbing experience into only forty feet of burly crack. The start is 11+ and unprotected for about ten feet, so have your belayer spot til then, and then make sure every piece counts, because you are close to the ground.
Location
This route is located in the Lower Blair III area before you reach the main cliff on your left as you approach. About two hundred yards or so before you reach routes like Five Finger Discount, venture 90 degrees left of the trail, about forty yards or so uphill towards a tower-like formation. The short, overhanging crack faces east and gets shade after noon.
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