This is a short climb, but it is tougher than you think. There were originally 4 bolts and then an anchor, but the first bolt has been chopped. This makes the climb a bit R rated as the second bolt (now the first bolt) is at least 6 metres from the ground and is not at a great spot for clipping. There is, however, a small crack where you could stick in a nut about 4 metres from the start. The crux is halfway up the climb at the (now) second bolt.
The original rating on this climb was a 6a but I disagree with the rating on this climb as I've climbed all the other 6a climbs at this crag and this one is much harder than those. Definitely closer to 6c but not a 7a. Potentially the original rating was based on the fact that this is a much shorter climb than the others.
Also, a little safety hazard that you may or may not see, There are a few tiny rusty nails that are hammered into the crack in a couple places. Not sure what they are there for, but if you can, just take them out (update: September 2013, I was able to get one out). There are at least 3 for sure, but they are pretty hard to get out with just your fingers...
1st on the left at area 2
The first bolt has been chopped, so the first bolt that is on the route is at about 6 metres up. A bit R rated as this is a pretty good size fall if you screw up.
There is a crack were you could get in a nut though at about 4 metres up so that could make it a bit safer.
After the first bolt there are two more and then the anchors.
So, a total of 3 draws are needed, plus a small nut if you want that extra protection.
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