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Storm Mountain Island
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La Creme De Shorts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,983
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Love the jamming on this route.

Description 

Approach as per Layback Crack. This climbs the right trending crack in the face. Finger to hand climbing that proved to be very strenuous. This climb is beautiful nonetheless.


Protection 

2 chains atop for the anchors. Standard rack, avoiding the small stuff and the larger stuff. My 1st piece was a nut and the rest were SLCD's (more out of convenience than neccesity).



Photos of La Creme De Shorts Slideshow Add Photo
1st face holds
1st face holds
Climbing Creme de Shorts.
Climbing Creme de Shorts.
4. Layback Crack (5.5) at Storm Mtn Picnic Area
BETA PHOTO: 4. Layback Crack (5.5) at Storm Mtn Picnic Area
Another pic of Creme de Shorts.
Another pic of Creme de Shorts.
I didn't even realized how much I stemmed until I looked at the photos.
I didn't even realized how much I stemmed until I ...
la creme de shorts
BETA PHOTO: la creme de shorts
TR'ing my nephew from Houston.  His first real rock (only gyms in Houston), no beta, and a bit off-route :)  What did we tape up for again?
TR'ing my nephew from Houston. His first real roc...
2nd clip (already over-protecting)
2nd clip (already over-protecting)
photo: Mooner - me following
photo: Mooner - me following
Comments on La Creme De Shorts Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vince Romney
Jun 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Did this again on Memorial Day, and I forgot how cool this is! Bomber jams, slight overhang, and killer stems for stances while placing pro. This is a great pre-climb for Goodro's. Stemming saves the arms.

By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Jun 4, 2004

Agree with Vince! This climb may spank some unsusupecting 5.9 leaders (like it did me a couple years ago). Be ready to crank from the start. Really too short to get 2 stars, but better than a 1 star, so what the hell.

By Nathan Fisher
Aug 23, 2004

Finally lead this...What a pump. I was almost more pumped than after Goodro's.

By Nathan Fisher
Aug 23, 2004

Almost forgot, the chain anchors are not in the best position for this climb. A natural anchor can be had easily.

By Ishmail
From: Utah
Oct 17, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I finally did this climb and it is a great one. If it were only a little longer. Nice jams and fun stemming.

By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Aug 3, 2007

The first 20-25 feet is the beef of the climb. Then it turns to classic BCC 5.8. Quality.

By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I've done this one several times now, I gotta say that I really like it! Pumpy, nicely protected, and great movement.

By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Oct 9, 2012

With a 70m rope we did this and kept going to the top of the second pitch of Layback and walked off. True the top section will feel just like steep hiking after doing the crack but it's always fun to top out on something.

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

It's pumpy! This was a tricky one for me, but once I worked out the gear and moves through the lower section it felt much more manageable. Doubles in 2s, 1s, and .75s did the trick for me.