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 ADVANCED
The Pear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil's Lake Revisited T 
Dextrous Digits T,TR 
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 
Finger Tripping T 
Gina's Surprise T 
Good Timing T,S 
Heavenly Journey T 
Jam on It T,TR 
La Chaim T 
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 
Neko's Route T,S 
Northern Lights T 
Pit of the Pear, The T 
Platinum Stethoscope T 
Right Dihedral T 
Root of All Evil T 
Salud T 
Sibling Rivalry T,S 
Slippage T 
Sloper Ramp 
Sweet Sabrina T 
Thorazine T 
Whole Thing T 
Unsorted Routes:

La Chaim 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: [Steve Komito & Jenny Goldberg, 1970s]
Page Views: 2,393
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Climbers on the second pitch of La Chaim.
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the left side of the Pear, and features an excellent thin finger crack on the second pitch. It starts about 150 feet left of the Batrachian Dihedral.

P1-Climb up an easy right-facing corner formed by a smaller rock which abuts the Pear. From a tree, go up left of a dike, past a small tree (sling for protection), and up an unprotected slab to belay on a small ledge (5.7, 150 ft.).

P2-find the finger crack slightly up and right of the belay (not to be confused with a dihedral on the right), and follow it all the way to the walk-off ledge (5.7). Scramble off or continue on Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe.

[La Chaim means "To life!" in Hebrew]


Protection 

Bring small stoppers and a few RPs [plus a light standard rack].



Photos of La Chaim Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up P2. We simulclimbed from the ground up moderate slabs left of the normal start.
Midway up P2. We simulclimbed from the ground up m...
Warren leading the start of pitch 2.  He now goes up and left.
Warren leading the start of pitch 2. He now goes ...
Marisa Fienup nears the top of Pitch 2 of La Chaim, Lumpy Ridge.
Marisa Fienup nears the top of Pitch 2 of La Chaim...
Warren leading pitch 2, his left hand is in the start of the "excellent finger crack".
Warren leading pitch 2, his left hand is in the st...
Paul Beiser leading the first pitch.  Just past the initial trees and left of the dike in the runout section heading to the small ledge at the next tree above him for pro.
Paul Beiser leading the first pitch. Just past th...
The route can go either up the white dike or out right then back to the finger crack.
The route can go either up the white dike or out r...
Jaclyn, 8, enjoying the last bit of the finger crack.
Jaclyn, 8, enjoying the last bit of the finger cra...
Matthew Fienup belays atop pitch 2 of La Chaim, Lumpy Ridge.  It is possible to access the walk-off by scrambling past the tree and over the bulge into the background of this picture.
BETA PHOTO: Matthew Fienup belays atop pitch 2 of La Chaim, Lu...
Comments on La Chaim Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2014
By William Prehm
Aug 6, 2001

I though the hardest move was a mantle/slab move (more mentally challenging than technical) at the end of the first pitch with about twenty-five feet of run-out below you. Serious fall potential on this one. The finger crack on the second pitch is excellent.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2001

I actually protected the second pitch without using a single RP or tiny stopper. Let's see - red TCU, red & yellow Alien, .75 Camalot, yellow 2 Camalot... and #00 flex Friend, with a couple of good and relatively large stopper placements.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2002

[This] is a nice route! We followed Rossiter's topo, which tells you to follow a white dike on p1. This is a good way to find this route although I zig-zagged along the dike trying to find pro and the easiest line. I ended up going 6' right of the small tree, there is a nice flake below and right of this tree that can be used for pro (although the flake may be expanding). On the second pitch, we started up and right, then moved back left to find the good cracks. We had to switch cracks twice as one petered out to find good pro. This climb would definitely be 3 stars if it was longer.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2002

Heck, I might give this route 3 stars "as is". Also, we did not place any RPs on the route. Stoppers and cams are what you need, the biggest thing we used was about #2 Camalot sized.

By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 5, 2003

It's possible to climb La Chaim in a single pitch with some moderate scrambling. We climbing up to the ledge with the tree and belayed from there. From the ledge, climb straight up, clipping the first three bolts on Salud (fun climbing over the small overhand). At the third bolt, break right, climb through some broken looking rock (solid), and aim for the finger crack. Follow the crack to the ledge and walk off. The crack is a lot of fun and well worth doing.

By flynn
Apr 12, 2004

A fun combination links up any first pitch of Enema Syringe with the second pitch of La Chaim. Concoct your first pitch and belay at the foot of the dihedral as usual. Then step wildly around left - it looks like it's going to get hard, but always sneaks you a bucket just in time - and angle up and left to ease into the pretty crack that's the second pitch of La Chaim. Enjoy.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 27, 2006

Towards the top of the finger crack, you can jump over to the left to an even larger crack.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Apr 21, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Each pitch is 35m, so you can combine both with a 70m. This climb has some fun runout climbing on P1 and a sweet finger crack on P2.

By Cale Farnham
Sep 29, 2008

Sweet climb, kinda run-out in spots but good climbing! The second pitch is the best, superb finger crack! 3 stars but definitely could've been longer!

By goatboywonder
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Real nice climb. Quite runout in spots but manageable. The moves into the final crack on the first pitch really got my attention. Kind of a funky mantle waaay above your last piece of gear.

By Joe Catellani
From: Seattle, wa
Jul 3, 2014

Jun. 17, 2014 - lot of grass (and a few flowers) in crack on pitch 2 but doesn't interfere with climbing.