||Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Erik Durgin, Gentle Ben Griffin |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Fall, this route seeps quite a bit after periods of heavy rain.|
|Page Views: ||568|
|Submitted By: ||Erik Durgin on Oct 9, 2013|
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Crappy photo of Ben on the mid-section.
La Cantina is a fantastic addition to the Roof Wall. Fun movement on some of the best rock in the canyon makes this route a must do!
Start by hugging your way up the first two bolts of El Rancho
. From the undercling block below bolt #3, cruise left on fun, swingy jugs to get established on a nice, juggy ledge. Rest up and launch into the pumpy mid-section of the route. Pass some taxing clips (#6-7), and power through the crux on big sidepulls, big deadpionts, and small feet. Enjoy the last few feet of fun jug climbing, clip the anchors, lower down, tie back in, and do it all over again, because it's just that much fun!
This route begins on the prominent arete feature in the middle of the wall.
8 bolts + chains.
By Erik Durgin
Oct 9, 2013
A fun side note: the same day Ben and I bolted this route, we also literally carried two overweight girls, on our backs, out of the canyon who had broken their ankles jumping the falls.