|Alcove/Pic of the Vic area to the Upper Bridge
L of Pocket Rocket
|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Consensus: ||WI6 M5 [details]|
|FA: ||Philippe, 2002?|
|Season: ||a good winter|
|Page Views: ||859|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Feb 19, 2005|
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Startin' into the business.
This fun little variation starts in the Dream Team/Jesus Built My Fingercrack area between the upper bridge & the Schoolroom area. It is a mixed start in a crack system just left of the crack system with pins that is Pocket Rocket. Despite asking around a bit, we have found no better/more-accurate name for this line. Mutants with fruit boots & leashless weapons will be bored. Nonetheless, it is pretty dang fun for average ice whackers (like us) with clunker warm boots and regular tools!
You could lead this line; however there is no obvious fixed pro. So, it will be burly to do so. You can TR this with a single 60m rope with lots of long slings off 2 large trees just off the access trail or tie 2 ropes together. If you throw your ropes, aim for the ice prow of Jesus.... You could move the belay above The Verminator. A ice screw directional above this start may be saner. You have to be careful with the start (if you belay as for Baby Butt/Jesus...) because if you blow it before the ice roof, you may hit the ice cone below. If you blow it above the ice roof, you'll swing back under the ice of Baby Butt. You may bend your crampons hitting the wall. To gain the start, you may have to do a delicate traverse above open water below Baby Butt.
Philippe provided some of this info but no name has been provided yet. Neither Terminal Velocity nor this route were in Vince Anderson's 2003 or 2004 guides.
Start as for Terminal Velocity on ice in a corner. Quickly reach right to ice blob, match, drytool right to a slopey rock notch, drytool a good rock hold move up & gain the ice just below the roof. Reach out the roof, get your feet tucked way underneath, power out. You can continue either going left to Baby Butt or up an ice chimney above, or out right on Pocket Rocket. Fun, fun, fun! Grrrr
Creativity with rock gear (pins & cams) & ice screws once you are past the crux
Lots of long slings off 2 large trees to use a single 60m above Baby Butt. Slings & ice screws for anchor above The Verminator.
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