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Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
Pointlessness T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

L of Lochluster 

WI4 M4

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus: WI4 M4 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,626
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: 11/19/96


Fun, neat, rampy, route in fat years. More challenging in lean years. Loch Vale Gorge. Nearly where the trail comes in from the main trail. Pins are in situ near the start. Can be frozen moss to exit. 120 feet. Rap off trees. When in just right can be the most fun moderate route in the area. (Long walkoff to the left past Mixed Feelings).

[Eds. this was previously misnamed in the database]

There is a direct start to the right M6? A yellow C3 Camalot helps protect the start.


Screws, pins in situ, possibly rock gear in really lean conditions. There have been at least 2 different top anchor points used.

Toprope Protection 

2 ropes off trees above.

Photos of L of Lochluster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Direct start, low res.  Ben R?
Direct start, low res. Ben R?
Rock Climbing Photo: Bert on the mixed portion of the route. Mid-Nov. 2...
Bert on the mixed portion of the route. Mid-Nov. 2...

Comments on L of Lochluster Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 19, 2002

It's in again. However, it is thinner than this picture this year. 1st time it has looked reasonable since 1996 to me. Currently, however, the ice may be too thin for much ice pro. Rock is fairly compact.
By Caelan
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Nov 20, 2007

A cordelette and/or long slings are great for slinging around the ice pillars on this route. There is only one rap ring on the slings up there though --- it might be good to bring a back-up biner/ring. Other than that, it looks like you could actually keep climbing another short vertical section up and left of the tree and then rap off of the Crystal Meth (aka Lochness Monster?) anchor up higher.

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