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(07) Randy's Wall
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Kyle's Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kyle?
Page Views: 537
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Nov 3, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Kyle's Crack (5.7), Randy's Wall, Palomas Peak, NM

Description 

This short, fun crack ascends through a beautifully colored, patinated face. Kind of a bouldery start. Includes a variety of movement, from tips liebacking to straight-in jamming, but nothing lasts for very long; did I mention the route was pretty short?

Previously described by Moret (2003) in the online guide, and by Jackson (2006:279).


Location 

Near the far-leftmost side of Randy's Wall. Pretty easy to navigate to, using the other bolted lines as landmarks; look for the patinated face through which the crack ascends.


Protection 

Protects decently well with a standard rack of singles up to a #3 BD cam. The guide books say to bring big cams, but finger-sized are equally useful. Small nuts are useful for the seam at the start until you can get in a cam for a multidirectional placement.
Two bolts with rings at the top anchor.



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By Nick Manke
From: Edgewood, NM
Nov 10, 2008

Fun climb! This is a confidence builder for the beginning trad leader. Placements are solid throughout and easy to find. If I remember correctly, I only used up to a #2 C4 camalot, but a #3 could be easily used towards the top.