Kwanku Dai 5.8-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Ben Chapman & Randy McClure - April 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Bill Olszewski on May 20, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: The dark brown face of Kwanku Dai. Pull straight ...
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Description This route is not listed on the topo sign at Big Rock, nor is it listed in any guidebooks that I know of.
Easy slab climbing gains a large dish with a small vertical section. The crux is pulling out of the dish and is well-protected. Continue up through easy slab climbing and lots of flakes to a bolted anchor. The crux can (unfortunately) be all too easily bypassed by climbing the right edge of the dish. Rappel to descend.
Location It is about 10’ left of Headwall and just to the right of the Hard Trough.
Protection 3 bolts, bolted anchor.
Finishing the crux of Kwanku Dai.
photo by Lara D...
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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Feb 24, 2009
rating: 5.7+
| It's about 5.7 if you bypass the "crux" on the right. I think it's a bit contrived to call a route 5.9 when it has a one move crux that close the ground with an easier way still within easy reach of the first bolt. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 5, 2009
| Led this again the other day. Straight up past the first bolt seemed considerably easier than I remembered and I have to agree with you, Brian. So I've down-rated it: 5.8- because the crux feels a bit harder than any move on any Big Rock 5.7. I wish the FA had placed the bolt to the left of the crux hand holds, forcing the climber to stay away from the right edge of the dish.
I would really appreciate input from more climbers as to the difficulty rating for this climb. |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Nov 20, 2010
rating: 5.7+
| Hmmm... this felt like 5.7 IMHO, but definitely could be 5.7+/5.8- depending on where you pull over the bulge. On the FA this was named "Kwanku Dai" (To Look to the Sky). Fun polished slab, to a pull over the bulge. Continue up interesting palming and crimps on the upper slab, to the anchor. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 20, 2010
| Thanks Ben! Route info has been updated. |
By Rob Donnelly
From: Riverside, CA
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| Good crux gives pause but is well protected. |
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