|Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>|
Hard route, doesn't see much traffic.
First route to the left of the rock sun shelter wall at the start of Tufa City.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 12, 2013
This route starts up a low 5.10 popcorn covered face to a no-hands rest below an interesting tufa curtain. At the tufa curtain things get more challenging, good pinches and underclings allow you to clip the bolt under the roof. A strenous cross from underclings to another smaller undercling allow for a challenging clip of the fixed draw. Here the crux starts and I was mystified, there is a jug just out of deadpoint reach for me, and the other holds are small and far apart. Seemed very Kryptic, any beta would be appreciated. After the jug a few powerful cranks lead over the second roof and a techy low angle 11+ / 12- face climb to the anchors. Not a bad route but not as classic as some of its neighbors on Tufa City.
|By Toast with Butter|
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 11, 2013
an intimidating but beautiful looking line on great rock with positive holds. Definitely a one move wonder v6/7 dead point crux, but absolutely worth doing. The leaver draw has been replaced as of 12.11.13 and leaver biners have been added to the chain anchors. 10 bolts to the anchors.
|By Pat Mac|
Dec 22, 2013
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Toast thank you for replacing the gear on this route! I had been on this route about 3yrs ago and really couldn't figure out the move coming out of the roof.
After not finding a good clipping stance for the leaver draw that Toast donated. I decided to try and clip it for the lower side pole jug, and I was able to. So now I was able to set up for the toss without stopping mid sequence and clip. After finally sticking the toss I was never able to hit it just right. I had to readjust then I was able to cut the feet and get ready for the 'Curtain'.
Fun line very bouldery don't forget your hops when trying this route.
Thank you Toast with Butter for the donation!!!