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Black Magic
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Black Magic 
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Kronk 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Roberts
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2011
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Jon Scoville, nearing the top.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Excellent quality rock with some exciting movement.

A slightly balancy start with big holds leads to a slight ledge. After the ledge comes a tricky dihedral that requires stemming, liebacking, and perseverance. Don't forget to try a finger lock.

The top of the dihedral is a bit strenuous; shortly after, however, comes a respite. After the break, start up a slabby bit on rounded footholds. Either go a little and surmount a bit of a roof, or stay right for a few tenuous, balancy moves.

Continue up and right a bit and cruise to the anchors.


Protection 

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Location 

Found on the downhill (left) side of the wall to the left of the Black Magic cave.

Just after starting up the hill on the wooden steps there is a left-facing dihedral with bolts along its left side, and at the top of the dihedral a bolt on the right side. This is the route.



Photos of Kronk Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Scoville climbing through the cruxy bit.
Jon Scoville climbing through the cruxy bit.
Jon Scoville, tackling the roof/arete to the left of the finishing slabby part.
Jon Scoville, tackling the roof/arete to the left ...
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