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Routes in Indian Rock
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blowing Bubbles S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cave route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dismal Abysmal TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Donkey Dong S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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High On Testosterone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hocus S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jail Bird S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jail Bird Direct S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Krokus T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Puckered Starfish S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shag Rug TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strip Poker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Viscious Circles S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | David Caunt |
| Page Views: | 9,093 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
Located in the middle of the south side, this route is nearly always in the shade.
This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.
For an added burn, link this up with hocus.
This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.
For an added burn, link this up with hocus.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. On lead, you can protect the section after the first bolt with a large (2 1/2" - 4") friend (#3 BD Camelot, Marroon Metolius Supercam).
Bring short slings (3') for a top rope. The top of this route can be accessed without climbing it by down climbing from the top of Indian Rock from the south side, though be careful, this is non trivial. The best place to set a toprope is at the top of hocus, rappelling in from the top of south face.
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