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Bulletheads, Central
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Bulletheads East T 
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Krimo Gold T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Krimo Gold 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Aaron Kristiansen, Luke Cormier, 2012
Page Views: 638
Submitted By: geoff georges on Jun 25, 2014

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Jessica leading the nice 3rd pitch.

Description 

This is a variation to the Liquid Gold route.
If Half Moon chimney is wet or you are not into the run out slab you can do this excellent variation.

Pitch 1) LG 10c/d shallow LFC, gradually gets harder as you go up till you are trying to fiddle in some small cams as you come around the crescent overlaps toward the anchor. There is some bigger cam placements out right and dyke holds up high. The bolted anchor is out left, and the original LG bolt and traverse goes right toward the big corner.30M

Pitch 2) 10c, head for 2 bolt traverse across dyke holds, fun moves and get on hand crack, keep going into RFC and layback up to ramps and easy cracks to bolted belay. 32M

Pitch 3) 10a/b,( the FA team gives it a 10b, we thought it is 10a) 2 bolts protect a thin groove to great finger to hands crack, head for tree, big flake up to belay. 33M

Belay leader up through woods while pulling on fixed line to ledge.

Pitch 4) 10d, The mega 70m crack of Liquid Gold. I was running out of gear and energy so belayed at about 40m on a big foothold with 2 cracks for pro, this left some hard crack moves for the next 30m lead.

Location 

After you pass Bulletheads East going north up the hill this is the next clean corner with a big dirt base area.
We did the standard walk off to fixed rope by Yellow Lab.
If that is very wet, I have also rapped the slab to the north side of this slot, 2 raps with single 60m rope.

Protection 

Double rack to 3", with extra in the finger size, and many nuts work well too. Bolted anchors.We had planned to do half moon chimney so had a #4 and #5 Camalot. I used the #4 below roof in middle of last pitch, but a #3 works there too.


Photos of Krimo Gold Slideshow Add Photo
the 3rd pitch, with the liquid gold chimney on the...
the 3rd pitch, with the liquid gold chimney on the...
dispatched the 2nd pitch traverse, head up corner.
dispatched the 2nd pitch traverse, head up corner.
The primo 60-70 meter liquid gold pitch.
The primo 60-70 meter liquid gold pitch.

Comments on Krimo Gold Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 29, 2014

Topo available here: quickdrawpublications.com/wp/w...
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jul 15, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Surprised this route has so few comments. Great route! My favorite of this trip to Squamish. Highly recommended if you are leading mid 5.10 solidly.

All pitches are good. Multiple 5.10 cruxes/sections and good variety. Top pitch is continuously steep but felt generally quite secure (to me) with lots of great hand jams and rests between creative jamming, stemming laybacking etc. Stellar pitch!

Pro seemed good enough, though some a bit fiddly, and some sections felt pretty committing. There were a few sections where it felt better to double up on placements and run it out a little through the difficulties to the next rest instead of hanging out to place mid sequence. I found a lot of excellent medium to large nut and offset nut placements where cams would be hard to fit into odd flares etc. We had 4-5 quickdraws and 7-8 runners, I'd leave the QDs next time and take 15-16 runners.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 16, 2015

Mountain hick,I almost wrote mountainchick, my guess is that Canadians don't really embrace MP. Also it is a variation to the older Liquid Gold, sharing the best 1st and last pitch.
By rocknice2
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jul 28, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Double rack from .3-#3. Triples in .4-.75 Camalot.
First pitch felt kinda spicy up to the overlaps and the moving leftward to the anchor. 10+ (a bit PG)
Second pitch has technical face past two bolts. Then a committing layback. The rest is pretty easy. 10c.
Third pitch passes 2 bolts of the belay (crux) then fun finger and hand crack to trees. 10b.
Last pitch has it all, fingers, hands, a little bit of fist and for good measure some quick lieback. There is tons of gear just make sure you have enough.

We rappelled Bullethead East.
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