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Krakow - Czestochowa upland. AKA The Jura

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Dolina Bedkowska 
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Krakow - Czestochowa upland. AKA The Jura  


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Submitted By: Mark Roth on Aug 10, 2010
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enjoying the wonders of the Jura

Description 

Named for the Jurassic period limestone that forms the region, the Jura has a seemingly endless amount of outcrops, towers, and caves hidden across the landscape between Krakow and Czestochowa. The average Polish landscape is characterized by rolling forested hillsides, small farms and little towns with beautiful churches, usually more inviting to invading armies then climbers... This region has a nice exception, the tiny hills are covered with rocks! Many of these hills have medieval castles at their tops, originally designed to utilize the natural outcrops for added protection. Unfortunately many of them were destroyed when Poland was invaded by the Swedes in the 1650s. Exploring the castles can be a fun rest day activity. The castle at Bobolice has jousting tournaments. The Olsztyn castle has a firework and laser light show every fall. An other interesting thing to look out for is the Meta Minardi, the most poisonous spider in Poland, which lives in caves north of Krakow.

Since the climbing is spread out over such a large area, I would highly recommend the local guide books. I was able to find 4 guide books that cover the region, and also some mini guides in the climbing mags. The guide books Jura 1, Jura 2 and Jura 3 by Pawel Haciski cover areas from north to south respectively and do a good job of organizing the very complex region. There is also a good book to the Ostance Jerzmanowickie/Dolina Szklarki area by Tomasz Slusarczyk.

As to be expected in such an expansive area, there are a multitude of access issues. Some of the rocks are in areas that don't officially allow climbing, while others are on private land. Some of the rocks are even protected by eccentric neighbors who will do anything to dissuade climbers. Tactics include everything from chopping bolts to smearing them with cow pies!

You can find camping in the area, and hotels are very cheap(compared to western European countries). There are also countless B&Bs available as aggro tourism gains popularity.


Getting There 

Located in south central Poland. Train or plain to Krakow. Best to have a good road map and a rentel car from there...

Climbing Season



Weather station 25.5 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Krakow - Czestochowa upland. AKA The Jura
approaching the first real difficulties

Wiszace ogrody 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Europe : Poland : ... : Urwista Turnia
This one packs in a lot of excitement for a route this short. Really just a variation to a more direct route. By moving right to avoid the seemingly blank face below the anchors, you can supposedly drop the rating from hard 11 to easy 10. I had some real trouble by the 2nd bolt while still in the "easy" section. You have to commit to tiny but polished foot holds. After this move bigger holds lead to the frighteningly high and rusty 3rd clip. From here move right following a hidden series o...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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