Korbomite Maneuver is arguably the best line on the wall. Thin opening moves past a seam to very shallow pockets will gain a slipery cobble and the first 5.12 sequence. Paste the feet on a couple of polished, shallow cobbles. This is a really killer sequence here and worth the stars for the bouldery start all by itself. Gain the ledge and a rest below the roof/arete system above via a big move that is a tad run out. In principle, the roof can be done in two ways and both are 5.12: using the arete and a reach around it is a bit easier than staying strictly on the face which has a pair of very thin, sharp edges. Three stars for the combined cruxes, good stone, and rational protection. This is way too cool, just jump on it.
Half a dozen draws and a rope.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 29, 2002
Tom - KM was yours!!! I had Dave credited in my notes, now I'm not sure where that came from. In my mind KM has some of the best movement in CWC. It certainly falls in the top 10 in the canyon overall.
From: Front Range, CO
May 18, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Tough starting and finishing moves.