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Routes in Hallett Peak
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Ad Nauseum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Block Party T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day Trippin' T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finch Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northcutt-Carter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Owlbear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roomates Suck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Laton Kor and Butch Van Tongeren, 1962 |
| Page Views: | 1,240 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | paco on Jun 30, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Closures
Details
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Kor-Van Tongeren was on my "obscure climbs" tick list for some time and finally did it today. Neat-o. I really [couldn't] recommend this route to anyone except for the rare and elusive [Hallett] junky. Although it does have its moments.
P1. Find a right-leaning slot 50m up and and ways to the right of the Northcutt-Carter rock scar. Work your way up to some old slings [visible] from the ground.
P2. Choose the wide crack to the right or the roof straight above. We took the roof and found it quite enjoyable. Solid 5.8. Then continue up to a ledge and go right to the base of a groove/shallow, left-facing corner.
P3 and 4. You can link these pitches in 65m. This would be great climbing except that nearly every hold is loose. 5.8. The 5.9+ R variation to the left of these pitches looked like perfect rock and excellent but runout climbing.
P4 and 5. Finesse your way up the chimney for two pitches bringing you to a steep headwall ending the chimney system.
P6. Take the not so pretty crack/groove on the right in the back of the chimney and continue up 30 more feet ending on top of a small spire of sorts, 5.9.
Now, I [don't] know if Gillett or Rossitter have done this route, but the topos are a bit off here. From the belay after the chimney, one must rap 30 feet to a ledge and then start p.7 (or p.8 on the topo).
P7. My favorite pitch on the climb. Head up easy rock to the obvious thin crack splitting a headwall. Clip a fixed nut, and dare to yard on a loose chockstone to enter easier terrain, 5.9. This is a cool finger crack!
This climb is probably not as bad as I make it sound. It may be a better climb overall if the 5.9 R variation was taken on pitches 3 and 4.
P.S. I found [Gillett's] topo to be more accurate than [Rossiter's].
Photos
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