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Kor Roof question
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By Spyder
Oct 23, 2010

howdy. does the second re-lead the thin crack after the roof or is it jug-able? can't quite get a make on the angle from the photos.

thanks


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By Ryan Huetter
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 23, 2010
From Mountain Magazine (Bruce Carson's first clean ascent of Sentinal Rock's West Face)

Kor Roof on SF of the Column? Easy.
Back clean all the bolts except for the last one, then leave gear every 3 ft. The crack opens up and is varied in size enough to leave bunch. Failing to do so will be miserable for your second- every piece cleaned will send the second skating back over the lip of the roof. Soon it will start trending straight up and you can leapfrog a bit more.


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By Spyder
Oct 23, 2010

cool. so, would it be wise for the second to clip to each piece as if they were leading then unclip from, and clean, each piece as they move up the crack?

btw, this is all in reference to the crack after the roof. the roof itself is no biggie.

thanks a lot


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By CO_Michael
Oct 23, 2010
Mexico roadside rocks

Hey Spyder,

Yes, the second should re-aid the slanting crack just like the leader.

It is hell to follow jugging the rope. Just have both jugs there as the belay.

That 4th pitch is the crux for many beginning wall climbers.

Also just haul to dinner ledge. Try to get through pitch 5 on the first day and fix back to dinner ledge. Blast to the top then rap the route. Don't haul the upper pitches. They are loose and you will knock some baseballs on the whole route. And you don't have to hike the North Dome Gully with a haul bag.

Or just do it all in one go.

But you will be missing out on hanging on Dinner Ledge for the night.

Good Luck


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