Start uphill from the South Face route beneath a cave just right of a juniper.
P1 5.8+ S: Step right through a bulge and climb up to the cave belay.
P2 5.10 R: Move left out of the cave, follow an obvious traverse which leads to the Crow's Nest.
P3 5.8 S: (45') Move up and right to an airy perch.
P4 5.12a R: Step down right, traverse right, move up and right through the crux bulge to a belay on the slab above.
P5 5.8 R: Climb left up the black ramp to the top.
This route was previously recorded as High South 5.7 A2+. Unfortunately this significant route has been largely omitted or inaccurately described by recent guidebooks.
A variation finish was added by Miller-Light:
P5 variation 5.9 R: Move right and up to join the East Ridge.
One full set: RPs to #4 Camalot, FFA used double ropes for security (lots of sideways climbing and some poor rock).
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
May 24, 2009
Nice work guys and congrats! I apologize for mis-describing this route in the new guidebook. I looked through literally EVERY guidebook that contained the Flatirons and this route has never been described in the fashion you guys did it. With that said, to my own fault, seeing as it was an aid line, I did not devote as much attention to it as the already existing free lines. Good work and thank you for correcting this long-standing error.
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
Good work Greg and David, a classic aid climbing odyssey freed as a committing, difficult trad line, which more or less zig-zags, following a line of least resistance up the sheer, exposed south face of the Maiden, I heard that a few of the old Kor anchors deteriorated when tugged upon. Way to keep the spirit alive.