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This is a good route that has a bit of loose rock on it. The first 3 pitches are nice sustained 5.8/9, then the 5-7th pitches get harder. The 5th goes up a corner and you've got to get out of the corner and around the arete to the right. My friend Alex took a chunk out of the arete here. Then the next pitch is classic Kor 5.9. You'll feel a total body pump by the time you get to the belay.
Right side of a big drainage. You'll be able to see folks on the East Buttress from the base. Climb starts up on a ledge.
Standard valley rack. Belays are fixed to rap. No bolts on any pitches for pro.
From: Oakland, CA
May 31, 2007
Thought this was a great climb. Several of the pitches link, which can make the first six pitches go pretty fast.
First pitch has a .10a variation to the right of the original line that is protected by two fixed bashies.
We took doubles to #3 BD, one #4 BD, a set of nuts, and a 70m. We linked pitches and found the rack to be plenty, or overkill.
A good deal easier than the standard you find on NEB Higher, but felt similar in some ways. Good, comfortable ledges and stances for every belay.
|By Nathan Furman|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 5, 2007
Really nice route. Never too hard, but never too easy either. Interesting and tradical throughout.
|By Tevis Blom|
Jun 28, 2008
The belay/rap anchors at the top of the 4th pitch have wobbly bolts! They look new, but when I weighted them , the left one flexed in its hole. The right bolt seemed more solid, but both had loose nuts. It held my 200 lbs on the rap, but I was reticent to shock load or bounce at all on the rap.
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 26, 2008
Worth doing once. Stout for the grade.
From: Oakland, CA
May 16, 2011
Great route, definitely some loose rock throughout. As of 5-14-11 all belays have at least one new bolt if not more.
|By Ryan Curry|
Jun 22, 2011
My partner and I were very nearly hit by rockfall at the base of this route. I heard stones tumbling down the chasm to the climbers' left and caught sight of falling rocks in time to repeatedly shout "ROCK!" to warn a group of three at the base of the chasm itself. They scattered quickly but my friend and I were trapped on the pedestal at the start of the route. I narrowly avoided taking a baseball sized chunk to the head by hugging the cliff. We were wearing helmets but I don't think it would've been pretty had we been hit. Take care when climbing at MCR and my advice would be to wear your helmet here.
|By Cori Bellis|
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Awesome climb to do if CPF is swarming with people. A true old school 5.9 climb