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Moving up into the crux. Photo by Matt Moore
This is the second route from the right and starts off the high point of the slab at the base of the wall and heads up and left, Custer's Last Stand heads up and right.
Make long moves right from the start on holds that are somehow not as good as on the other routes. An awkward sequence leads up into the bulge and a kneebar to get over to a good pocket. Take a deep breath and move up on some smaller holds, the left of which will eat your finger tips for lunch. A big move to a small but positive hold, choose which terrible hold you want to use as an intermediate and jump for all your worth for the positive holds above. 5.12 climbing on lower quality stone leads to the anchor.
You could call the whole thing from the start to the dyno the crux, there is no rest and it just seems to get harder as you go.
Bolts to a glue in anchor that needs to be threaded.
Procrastinating at the start of the route. Photo b...
Cool and physical undercling sequence. Photo by Ma...
The physical 4th clip which is mandatory since you...
Setting up for the climactic dyno at the end of th...
Sticking...barely, the throw. Everything stayed on...
Working through the upper headwall on easier climb...