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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Arrows 
Counting Coup 
Custer's Last Stand 
Ghost Dancers 
Ghost Dancers Extension 
It is not Necessary for Eagles to be Crows 
Kootenai Cruiser 
On the Prowl (?) 
Smoke Signals 
Tribal War 

Kootenai Cruiser 

5.13d

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.13d [details]
FA: Chris Grijavla
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Moving up into the crux. Photo by Matt Moore

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Description 

This is the second route from the right and starts off the high point of the slab at the base of the wall and heads up and left, Custer's Last Stand heads up and right.

Make long moves right from the start on holds that are somehow not as good as on the other routes. An awkward sequence leads up into the bulge and a kneebar to get over to a good pocket. Take a deep breath and move up on some smaller holds, the left of which will eat your finger tips for lunch. A big move to a small but positive hold, choose which terrible hold you want to use as an intermediate and jump for all your worth for the positive holds above. 5.12 climbing on lower quality stone leads to the anchor.

You could call the whole thing from the start to the dyno the crux, there is no rest and it just seems to get harder as you go.


Protection 

Bolts to a glue in anchor that needs to be threaded.



Photos of Kootenai Cruiser Slideshow Add Photo
Procrastinating at the start of the route. Photo by Matt Moore

Procrastinating at the start of the route. Photo b...

Cool and physical undercling sequence. Photo by Matt Moore

Cool and physical undercling sequence. Photo by Ma...

The physical 4th clip which is mandatory since you skip the 5th. Photo by Matt Moore

The physical 4th clip which is mandatory since you...

Setting up for the climactic dyno at the end of the hard climbing. Photo by Matt Moore

Setting up for the climactic dyno at the end of th...

Sticking...barely, the throw. Everything stayed on when I did it from a hang and everything nearly came off on link. Photo by Matt Moore

Sticking...barely, the throw. Everything stayed on...

Working through the upper headwall on easier climbing. Photo by Matt Moore

Working through the upper headwall on easier climb...