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 ADVANCED
The Thumb
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job T,S 
Center Slot T 
Confines of Power S 
Descent Route T 
Epic Sushi Party S 
Konichiwa S 
Left Center T 
Mind Over Matter T 
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter T 
North Overhangs T 
Opposable Distraction T,S 
Pigeon Perch T,S 
Pixie, The S 
Rest in Peace S 
Right Center T 
Rooftop Rodeo S 
South Ridge of the Thumb T 
Sucker Punch S 
Thumb Up My Arse T,S 
Thumb's Up S 
Uphill Cracks T 
Vapor Trail S 
Zig Arete S 

Konichiwa 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: N. Welton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: Nathan Welton on Jul 9, 2013

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Description 

This is basically roped bouldering, but it's still worth a go. The crux is fun and hard, despite the meat of the climb being maybe 15 feet or so. Follow the line of bolts to the right of The Pixie. Find the crimp right below the roof, bust left to giant jugs, match on the higher one, and then do a heel hook dyno to set your right foot in the lower jug. Reach up to a right handed pinch, left to a sidepull crimp, right out to a crimp in the roof's dihedral, left to another sidepull crimp above the crappy right hand hold you pinched, and bust right out to a sloping crimp below the bolt, iron cross style. Left goes to a jug, get a knee bar to clip, blah blah blah. Without giving away too much, make sure your shoulders are strong! Basically, this is 5.10 to a hard V6 boulder problem. Best to continue upward, joining the upper crux of Rooftop Rodeo.

This is covered in lichen and is still cleaning up, but the essential holds have been brushed.


Protection 

8 bolts to the old belay anchor halfway up The Pixie; 11 bolts if you keep going on up and hit the anchors for Rooftop Rodeo.


Location 

This is right of The Pixie.



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