On the way through the woods toward Down Under (home of Doug's Roof), one of the landmarks to let you know you're on the right track is this enormous, taller-than-it-is-wide boulder. Any face of the Kong receptive to a climber's inquisitive stare is also quick to frighten. The Kong is huge, strikingly featured with weird, swooping aretes, stray pockets, and discontinuous crack features.
I have no problems to post on the Kong, but I wanted to document its existence and general badassery.
Begin with standard Red Rock approach. Just uphill of the storage units, cut around them through the woods. Do not cut through the final storage units to save two minutes and endanger our access. Hike up the aqueduct trail and keep your eyes peeled for a cairn on the stone wall to your right. This cairn is the first that marks the approach to Down Under. The trail is faint, but if you pay attention and scan for cairns, you will probably avoid getting lost. After 5-10 minutes the unmistakeably monolithic Kong will rear into view.
In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:
This is actually kind of fun for the grade with big moves on great holds; it is just short and scrappy. The line is not obvious, and it can be done in a few different ways.Maybe the best value is to start down low in the little cave/alcove on throw for the large shelf, then head up, and topout. ...[more]Browse More Classics in MA
Just wanted to add that this boulder is like 40 feet from the backside of the parking lot for the Cape Ann Vet Hospital. You can clearly see it from the parking lot in the winter. So, if you are hunting for either this one or Doug's Roof, then you will know you are too deep in the woods if you can't see the clinic through the trees.
There are some boulder problems on one corner, but the rest of the block suffers from a mixture of bad landings, poor angles, and height. Are there TR anchors on top? Anyone know what the climb up the prow goes at? Looks HARD.
I am not generally a fan of sport routes in Redrock -- because I don't think it complements the style in a lot of cases -- but the two climbs on the tall face of this boulder are crying out for clip-ups. The one on climber's left looks like a fun moderate, the one on the left up the overhanging prow looks really hard but could be a little area classic. There is an extensive blank section between decent looking holds.
Both routes like sport route (steep, bouldery) and would have to be well-bolted (i.e. liberally and intelligently) due to potential swings and groundfall.