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Godzilla Face
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Komodo Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Clark Jacobs and Jeff Best, 1974
Page Views: 1,039
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Splitter P2 of Komodo Corner. Mostly fingers to h...

Description 

This is a classic crack climb in a somewhat obscure location. Pitch 1 (5.7) is pure hands, with the crux moving over a small overhang. Pitch 2 (5.7) is a very clean corner, with finger and flared hand jamming, widening to pure hands near the top. It is located at the right end of the Godzilla Face.

Protection 

standard rack, with extra hand size pieces


Photos of Komodo Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Begins from blocks down low, but the money is thro...
BETA PHOTO: Begins from blocks down low, but the money is thro...
first pitch of Komodo Corner
BETA PHOTO: first pitch of Komodo Corner
Looking down upper fingers dihedral.
Looking down upper fingers dihedral.

Comments on Komodo Corner Add Comment
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By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

i did hot buttered rump then scrambled over to do this climb. fun, covered in lichen, you can tell no one has touched these in years and they are sandbagged to boot.
By Chris Norwood
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb definitely seems overlooked. It's super splitter, albeit a little hard to get to, and the ants biting you at the the belay beneath the climb sure didn't help :P

Super fun climb, but did feel a bit sandbagged, even for the area.
By G Frisby
From: Orange, CA
Jun 9, 2013

fun climb on the tougher end of 5.7. the belay ledge for the start of the second pitch is nice and shady, i.e. good for hot days.
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I linked the two pitches into one, not recommended. The drag was relatively reasonable, but clipping can be awkward on p2 and the extra drag made the climb seem a lot harder than it was. P2 was lichen covered, grainy and far from 'clean'...could be much better if it got more traffic, but I sincerely doubt it ever will...
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
3 days ago
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Alas if it could only be longer! Or just had the two pitches truly stacked on top of one another. As an out of shape trad climber trying to get his lead head back it felt great to crush this climb. with great foot jams the whole + solid slab divots on the upper pitch your really can't rate this anything above a 7, I really don't think it is sandbagged at all.
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