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Kokopelli Spire

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Big Flute, The T 

Kokopelli Spire  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) on Apr 18, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: the spire, we saw a few bolts from the ground, all...

Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A small, hunched spire (looks a bit like it's going to fall over) near downtown Farmington.

This spire is not in the Navajo Nation, but is on private property.

Getting There 

On highway 371, drive from downtown across the bridge over the San Juan River. Immediately on the west side of the river park. An old dirt road leads from the bridge south, along the side of the river. About a mile down, you'll find Kokopelli.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.7 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Kokopelli Spire

The Big Flute 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c C0-1  NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Kokopelli Spire
Start on the south side of the tower. Climb up the obvious (and only) dihedral to a ledge system halfway up the tower. Move right, out to the southern edge of the big summit block. Climb a short bolt ladder to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Kokopelli Spire Slideshow Add Photo
another shot of the spire
BETA PHOTO: another shot of the spire

Comments on Kokopelli Spire Add Comment
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By Pat Goodman
From: Fayetteville, WV
Dec 1, 2008
Um...this thing is on private property. All the back roads have been gated and if you think you can get through Bolacks Ranch, you better wear a kevlar vest. Rad climb though!
By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 21, 2011
I'm stoked you guys actually did this. A striking summit that has lured local mountaineers for over 40 years. Crappy 1/4" Star dryvins on north side are David Nordstrom (c) 1973. Crappy 3/8" Phillips Red Head on south side is mine (c) 1981. We never got any farther than that. Blew it off & went to climb a new route on Barber Peak the same day.

Yes, Kokopelli Spire is on private land. On the first attempt Tom Bolack himself appeared to run us off. Second time we rapped down from the rim. This approach can be recommended with the following caveats:

1. Once over the edge, you're still on private land
2. Bring your trash ropes - they will get abraded on the jumar out
3. You still have to climb Kokopelli Spire which is a vertical stack of s**t.

Number 3 is just full disclosure: All the more reason to be impressed. It sounds like the climb went just the way we thought it would....