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Ao Nui 
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Oyster Blade, The 
Tonsai Tower 

Koh Phi-Phi 


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Administrators: Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 7, 2006

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


the Payoff! The view from the top, right before t...

Description 

This area is new for Mountain Project, and is just getting started. Feel free to contribute!

Welcome to Paradise!

The birthplace of climbing in Thailand. See the 1992 issue of Rock and Ice. Well developed with many places to stay and a functioning ATM. Very popular with tourists and divers, the island offers perfect beaches, excellent snorkeling, great diving, challenging game fishing and lots of activities like rock climbing, kayaking and local boat trips. Make sure to plan a day to trek up over the mountain to the Viewpoint Three and the remote beaches on the east side, and another early morning to spend on Phi Phi Leh.

The climbing is excellent at all grades up to 5.13b with the bulk of the routes in the 5.10 and 5.11 range. Hands down the best 5.10 multi pitch climbing in Thailand!

There are actually six islands in the Phi Phi group, with Phi Phi Don hosting all of the accommodation and nearly all of the climbing.

The rebolting process is ongoing and never-ending. It is a struggle every year to raise funds for new hardware. The Titanium bolts and Hilti glue that must be used equal out to about $17 PER BOLT! Thats over $200 PER ROUTE! Many people have put in their own time and money. If you climb here you owe it to the local community to make a donation. They have worked for over a decade now and you owe your life to them... literally! Inquire at Cat's Climbing Shop or email Shamick Byszewski

As most people are aware, this island was devastated in the December 2004 tsunami. The island has recovered well from the disaster, back on its feet, with the majority of buildings reconstructed and businesses eager to welcome people back.

However, the locals lost everything. Please support local business! Many businesses (even one climbing shop) are owned by foreigners. Don't be afraid to ask if the business is Thai owned because you should be spending money at the Thai owned shops.


Guide books:

  • Thailand: A Climbing Guide by Sam Lightner Jr. (2005)


  • Thailand Sport Climbing, The Pocket Guide 2010 by Sirichai Pongsopon at The Rock Shop (2010)


Getting There 

Ferry boats arrive daily from Krabi Town, Phuket and Ao Nang. Take a bus or fly to any of these areas. If you are traveling over land it is always cheaper and easier to get a combo ticket (bus+boat). If flying, buy a ticket at the airport when you land.


Guide Services 


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Koh Phi-Phi:
Jug City   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Tonsai Tower
Snapper   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Drinking Wall
Golden Copulation   5.10b     Sport, 2 pitches, 130 feet   Tonsai Tower
The Hand of Bhudda   5.10c     Sport, 4 pitches, 300 feet   The Oyster Blade
High Noon (Formerly Mr. Phi Phi)   5.10c     Sport, 80 feet   Tonsai Tower
Hanna's Gift   5.10c     Sport, 65 feet   Tonsai Tower
Andrea's Spine Line   5.10c     Sport, 80 feet   Tonsai Tower
Seven Samurai   5.10d     Sport, 80 feet   Tonsai Tower
Osapft Is   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Drinking Wall
Gladiator   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Tonsai Tower
Luis Trinker   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Drinking Wall
Vertical Vision   5.11c     Sport, 100 feet   Tonsai Tower
Rev de Phi Phi Don   5.12c     Sport, 6 pitches, 450 feet   Tonsai Tower
Browse More Classics in Koh Phi-Phi

Featured Route For Koh Phi-Phi
Ryan climbing the 5th and best pitch of "Rev de Phi Phi Don."  Photo: Jonas the Swede

Baron Von Tok, le Retour 5.12c PG13  International : Thailand : ... : Tonsai Tower
This route is the finish to "Rev de Phi Phi Don," or as it was originally called, "Pai Noon Mai." The pitches described here start at the ledge, 90 meters up the tower. The first pitch ascends the overhanging wall above the belay, and is a .12a. The second pitch goes up through the last steep section, and continues to the summit. 5.12c. Descend by doing two rappels back to the ledge. One 60 meter rope OK, two is better. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Koh Phi-Phi Slideshow Add Photo
Tonsi Tower

Tonsi Tower

Greg Martinez on Tonsi Tower horizontal jugs

Greg Martinez on Tonsi Tower horizontal jugs

Black Wasp Danger 1 sting you will swell up like a soft ball. they build nests in rainy season

Black Wasp Danger 1 sting you will swell up like a...

View of Tonsai Bay climbing areas

View of Tonsai Bay climbing areas

Shamick Byszewski rebolting "Rev de Phi Phi Don" on Tonsai Tower.

Shamick Byszewski rebolting "Rev de Phi Phi Don" o...

Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh

Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh

Judy bouldering at Maya Bay

Judy bouldering at Maya Bay

Phi Phi from Viewpoint Three near the radio tower.

Phi Phi from Viewpoint Three near the radio tower....

Jonas, Ryan, Eliza working on new routes on Tonsai Tower.  Photo:  David Kaszlikowski

Jonas, Ryan, Eliza working on new routes on Tonsai...


Comments on Koh Phi-Phi Add Comment
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By Curt Hokanson
May 3, 2011

Has to be one of the most beautiful places in the entire world. Had a wonderful vacation there with my girlfriend, climbing on Ton Sai Tower and laying on the beaches. Research hotels before hand because it can be a little overwhelming at the dock!

By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 15, 2011

I showed up here in '99 and was unable to find a climbing partner, also some of the people (all non-climbers, so they probably didn't know what they were talking about) warned me about bad bolts here. At which point I went over to Phra Nang and climbed there the rest of my trip; and found a lot of people to climb with. I'm just wondering if things have changed? If I show up are there going to be potential climbing partners here?

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 16, 2011

Things have changed a lot. All of the roues on Tonsai Tower, Drinking Wall and Hin Tak have been re-equipped with either Stainless or Titanium glue in bots. There aren't loads of climbers around... but you should be able to find partners.

You'll be blown away by the amount of development since '99 though, no matter where you go in southern Thailand. It's quite a bit different now than it was back then. You probably won't like it.