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Knuckles Down S 
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Knuckles Down 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: B. Spannuth (equipped by W. Anglin)
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 26, 2012

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Description 

Good movement on great rock. There are a few different sequences from the first to second bolt: either move straight up with long pulls on awesome crimps, or scooch a bit right and make tension moves to a good hold and traverse left on the horizontal. Climb to a shake then up to the roof though an amazing sequence of edges. Pull left through the roof using the "black tongue" to a good sidepull (the tongue looks like it could rip off, but it is really solid. I tried to kick it off when I bolted it, but it is there to stay and makes for a very unique hold). Contunue up on slopers to a kneebar just under the anchor. A horizontal hand-jam out left makes clipping the anchor a breeze. It may be the best route of the grade within a 30 minute radius of Gunnison.

Protection 

7 bolts to anchors.


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