|By Mark Pell|
Mar 1, 2013
As far as I know, I got the first free ascent of this climb in 1991 and did it all clean as a trad lead, then added a bolt later to protect the bouldery start when this little cliff began to develop in the direction of sport climbing with work by a group of Boulder-based climbers including myself, Alvino Pon, Ryan Mills, and Hank Caylor. The last time I was there in 2002, the bolt hanger had been removed, possibly as a statement by others claiming the FA? That may well be a legit claim, so no prob if that's the case. If not, the fixture in the rock is a Rawl Self-Dril anchor that accepts a 3/8" x 1" grade 5 capscrew to attach the hanger, and I'd greatly appreciate it if a helpful local would screw on a new hanger. No need to torque beyond what's necessary to secure the hanger solidly, as this type of bolt does not rely on torque to hold. Whatever, once you get to the crack the pro is very good from wired nuts and 1-3" camming devices. Nice finger locks and hand jams, a good route to learn basic crack techniques on or just have fun if you're already a good crack climber.