Know Ethics 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Bradley White, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006 |
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wedged in the corner on a winter lap of Know Ethic...
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Description Know Ethics climbs the tight inside corner to the right of Polly Purebred. Many a climber has lowered off only to say, "That was the hardest 5.10 I have ever done."
Though desperate, the climb is well protected with bolts. Climb up easy schist until below the orange corner. A hard pull deposits you into the corner at which point it might be helpful to think, "palms." And maybe "stems." Continue up the corner until it is possible to move left. You probably want to get out of the corner at this point anyway.
A hard move then leads back right, across the top of the corner, back into the gray schist. Easier moves give way to the anchor that, unlike almost every route on the wall, does not have quick clips.
Protection 8 bolts and a pin or two. The chains must be threaded before lowering. How uncivilized.
Above the corner and in to the jugs...
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this bolt was just barely sticking out enough to m...
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Unknown climber in the crux.
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james otey in the classically awkward corner of Kn...
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otey poised to make the move left... trust that fo...
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kevin getting through the crux...
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kevin getting it done in the cold!
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Historic anchor bolt
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A historic piton and some oozing algae - a common ...
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 29, 2008
| this thing always feels hard every time i do it... |
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 29, 2008
| this route is pretty rad...but i dunno about it being the hardest 5.10 i've ever climb. the dihedral is tons of fun! |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 29, 2010
| jeff on know ethics...
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 15, 2010
| there have been 2 fat glue in bolts added to the beginning of the route... anyone that climbs here much in the winter should be happy that the first one is left of where the ice pillar forms... no more running it out or bashing through ice to get to the first bolt :)
the second bolt protects the move to get up in to the corner where you are on a loose hold (that can only last so long) and had only a funky pin for pro in the past...
Thanks goes to the phantom that comes in the night bringing us new bolts to keep our climbing safe and fun!!! |
By S. Neoh
Sep 15, 2010
| Hear, hear, for the glue-in phantom. Take a bow.
I feel very insecure on this route (maybe due to the old pro, but I doubt it!). I will climb Centerpiece instead and fight the pump any day of the week! |
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Nov 3, 2010
| The extension is way betterrr... do itt. |
By SmithBro
Mar 6, 2011
| I will take my bow,although I did it for selfish resons. This is a super challenging barefoot climb,and I like to stay on the dry rock in winter. I also put an eye bolt below the lip on the extention, to make it easy to clip. |
By S. Neoh
Mar 12, 2011
| Thanks, Smithy, for the glue-in bolts, and, OK, you got me convinced; I will get on this climb this season and try out the extension. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012
| "Tom Armstrong did the belaying. I initially did a pendulum right onto the bulge and traversed left and up to the belay of Iron Man. Tom followed and in cleaning the route had to move left instead of the pendulum I had done, consequently he did the first free climbing of the route as a second. I returned with Tom Bowker and did the first free ascent with him. Shortly after that the route was bolted above the crux. I guess my nested pitons in the corner spooked other climbers. Hint, the climb can be downgraded by going completely around the outside corner onto bigger footholds before the final crux. The 'Extension' was done almost immediately by me."
Comment by bradley white on July 21st, 2009 8:43 am |
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 23, 2013
| WOW. This route is awesome.. |
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