Know Ethics climbs the tight inside corner to the right of Polly Purebred. Many a climber has lowered off only to say, "That was the hardest 5.10 I have ever done."
Though desperate, the climb is well protected with bolts. Climb up easy schist until below the orange corner. A hard pull deposits you into the corner at which point it might be helpful to think, "palms." And maybe "stems." Continue up the corner until it is possible to move left. You probably want to get out of the corner at this point anyway.
A hard move then leads back right, across the top of the corner, back into the gray schist. Easier moves give way to the anchor that, unlike almost every route on the wall, does not have quick clips. (edit - Does now)
8 bolts and a pin or two. The chains must be threaded before lowering. How uncivilized.
this route is pretty rad...but i dunno about it being the hardest 5.10 i've ever climb. the dihedral is tons of fun!
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 29, 2010
jeff on know ethics...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Sep 15, 2010
there have been 2 fat glue in bolts added to the beginning of the route... anyone that climbs here much in the winter should be happy that the first one is left of where the ice pillar forms... no more running it out or bashing through ice to get to the first bolt :)
the second bolt protects the move to get up in to the corner where you are on a loose hold (that can only last so long) and had only a funky pin for pro in the past...
Thanks goes to the phantom that comes in the night bringing us new bolts to keep our climbing safe and fun!!!
Hear, hear, for the glue-in phantom. Take a bow. I feel very insecure on this route (maybe due to the old pro, but I doubt it!). I will climb Centerpiece instead and fight the pump any day of the week!
I will take my bow,although I did it for selfish resons. This is a super challenging barefoot climb,and I like to stay on the dry rock in winter. I also put an eye bolt below the lip on the extention, to make it easy to clip.
"Tom Armstrong did the belaying. I initially did a pendulum right onto the bulge and traversed left and up to the belay of Iron Man. Tom followed and in cleaning the route had to move left instead of the pendulum I had done, consequently he did the first free climbing of the route as a second. I returned with Tom Bowker and did the first free ascent with him. Shortly after that the route was bolted above the crux. I guess my nested pitons in the corner spooked other climbers. Hint, the climb can be downgraded by going completely around the outside corner onto bigger footholds before the final crux. The 'Extension' was done almost immediately by me."
Comment by bradley white on July 21st, 2009 8:43 am
I just climbed it and it has quick clips on it now.
By Nick Grant From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH Aug 3, 2014 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
An ULTRA-classic Rumney route in the mid-range category if you like techy, balancey climbing. This one's the opposite of a jug-haul, and it's a ton of fun. Be sure to get the no-hands rest when you're stemming in the notch before you move out left to the little arete. You can completely de-pump.