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Knots in ropes
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By Gwut
Apr 21, 2013

Hi people, hey do any of you guys know if tying and alpine butterfly will weaken a ropes strength?


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Apr 21, 2013

I will go out on a limb and say that all knots weaken a rope. Some less than others.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 21, 2013

Gwut wrote:
Hi people, hey do any of you guys know if tying and alpine butterfly will weaken a ropes strength?


yes, but not enough to matter. climbing ropes , for all intents and purposes, do not break.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2013
...

"I will go out on a limb and say that all knots weaken a rope."


You don't need to go out on a limb. You're correct!


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By Gwut
Apr 21, 2013

so lets say I took a good whipper on a half rope with a few alpine butterflys in it, it would not break?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2013
...

Try it and HOPEFULLY get back with us.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Apr 21, 2013
Cleo's Needle

If I take a whipper with a figure 8 in the rope will I die?


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By Gwut
Apr 21, 2013

I have just been tying a heap of butterflys in my 1/2 rope and clipping my up it, you can take a few whippers at times doing this. Being a half rope with quite a few knots in it, makes me freak a little at times, how worried should I be. Will a half rope straight up snap on me?


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By Jack Mullen
From Oceanside CA
Apr 22, 2013

Ray Pinpillage wrote:
If I take a whipper with a figure 8 in the rope will I die?


Yes, also if you drink from a Nalgene that isn't BPA-free.


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By Gwut
Apr 22, 2013

I am for real guys, is this super bad and I should stop now or will this hold?


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 22, 2013

Gwut wrote:
I have just been tying a heap of butterflys in my 1/2 rope and clipping my up it, you can take a few whippers at times doing this. Being a half rope with quite a few knots in it, makes me freak a little at times, how worried should I be. Will a half rope straight up snap on me?


highly unlikely, although i wouldnt recommend doing this as standard practice. Although the rope should not break, you will likely drastically shorten its life (this is your TR solo method, i assume?)- you'll want to inspect the entire rope (and untie every knot) after each session, and certainly after each big whip.

i'd look into a different method, personally. One that isnt so hard on your rope- and you should really use a single line, preferably 10mm or larger (or at least 9.8mm)- those lines are designed for and have the build for abuse, where a half line does not.


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By amarius
Apr 22, 2013

Any bend in the rope will weaken the rope
Butterfly knot reduces strength of rope to 75% - according to this source

More rigorous testing can be found here, they quote 70.8%+-3.2% for dynamic ropes, and 80.6%+1.6% for static. Discrepancy can probably be explained by difference in diameter and construction


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 22, 2013
...

Change your stupid technique and you won't have this problem.


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By Gwut
Apr 22, 2013

thanks for the info guys, but I am traveling and have no climbing parners and only my half rope.

come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 22, 2013
...

"come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon."

You can get a Mini traxion for well UNDER $200.00. There are also many other devices that can be used for the same purpose that you can pick up cheap on EBAY and HERE and in the back seat of that idiots car with all the climbing stickers on it (Not suggesting you rip anyone off. "Just saying").



PS...

I personally value my life more than $200.00. (Like $200.01 for instance)
But to each their own!


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By SavageMarmot
From Nederland, CO
Apr 22, 2013
My dog!

Take your life into your OWN hands. Go free solo something, we're all gonna die. The lucky ones do it on their own terms.


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By Gwut
Apr 22, 2013

Locker wrote:
"come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon." You can get a Mini traxion for well UNDER $200.00. There are also many other devices that can be used for the same purpose that you can pick up cheap on EBAY and HERE and in the back seat of that idiots car with all the climbing stickers on it (Not suggesting you rip anyone off. "Just saying"). PS... I personally value my life more than $200.00. (Like $200.01 for instance) But to each their own!


Yea well 5 haven't really got 100$ let alone two. For real, what are some other ways to top rope solo with nothing more than a rope and a reverso 3


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 22, 2013
...

Prusik with a DYNEEMA sling, for a REAL treat.

;-)


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By Gwut
Apr 22, 2013

Locker wrote:
Prusik with a DYNEEMA sling, for a REAL treat. ;-)



Yea, real fun treat.


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By Gwut
Apr 22, 2013

I like having the rope kinda free so I can climb all ove the place.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Apr 22, 2013
Stoked...

<- wonders if a new charity thread for another rope solo device is coming...


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 22, 2013
...

I was going to suggest tying it around your neck but figured that might not go over real well.

Another suggesting is GET A FUCKING JOB so you can afford PROPER gear!




Don't you fucking HATE when douchebags write that shit? I know I do!

LOL!


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By Gwut
Apr 22, 2013

Locker wrote:
I was going to suggest tying it around your neck but figured that might not go over real well. Another suggesting is GET A FUCKING JOB so you can afford PROPER gear! Don't you fucking HATE when douchebags write that shit? I know I do! LOL!


Isn't that what people following a route are ment to do?

get a job-meh-they won't let me work in this shitire country they call the USA- whats a lad to do?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 22, 2013
...

Dude if you were around here I'd loan you one of my Mini Traxions.

I feel for you!


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