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Apr 21, 2013
Me
Hi people, hey do any of you guys know if tying and alpine butterfly will weaken a ropes strength? Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 21, 2013
I will go out on a limb and say that all knots weaken a rope. Some less than others. FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
130 points
Apr 21, 2013
Gwut wrote:
Hi people, hey do any of you guys know if tying and alpine butterfly will weaken a ropes strength?


yes, but not enough to matter. climbing ropes , for all intents and purposes, do not break.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,394 points
Apr 21, 2013
...
"I will go out on a limb and say that all knots weaken a rope."


You don't need to go out on a limb. You're correct!
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Apr 21, 2013
Me
so lets say I took a good whipper on a half rope with a few alpine butterflys in it, it would not break? Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 21, 2013
...
Try it and HOPEFULLY get back with us. Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Apr 21, 2013
Middle
If I take a whipper with a figure 8 in the rope will I die? Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Apr 21, 2013
Me
I have just been tying a heap of butterflys in my 1/2 rope and clipping my up it, you can take a few whippers at times doing this. Being a half rope with quite a few knots in it, makes me freak a little at times, how worried should I be. Will a half rope straight up snap on me? Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 22, 2013
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
If I take a whipper with a figure 8 in the rope will I die?


Yes, also if you drink from a Nalgene that isn't BPA-free.
Jack Mullen
From Oceanside CA
Joined Mar 18, 2013
1 points
Apr 22, 2013
Me
I am for real guys, is this super bad and I should stop now or will this hold? Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 22, 2013
Gwut wrote:
I have just been tying a heap of butterflys in my 1/2 rope and clipping my up it, you can take a few whippers at times doing this. Being a half rope with quite a few knots in it, makes me freak a little at times, how worried should I be. Will a half rope straight up snap on me?


highly unlikely, although i wouldnt recommend doing this as standard practice. Although the rope should not break, you will likely drastically shorten its life (this is your TR solo method, i assume?)- you'll want to inspect the entire rope (and untie every knot) after each session, and certainly after each big whip.

i'd look into a different method, personally. One that isnt so hard on your rope- and you should really use a single line, preferably 10mm or larger (or at least 9.8mm)- those lines are designed for and have the build for abuse, where a half line does not.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,394 points
Apr 22, 2013
Any bend in the rope will weaken the rope
Butterfly knot reduces strength of rope to 75% - according to this source

More rigorous testing can be found here, they quote 70.8%+-3.2% for dynamic ropes, and 80.6%+1.6% for static. Discrepancy can probably be explained by difference in diameter and construction
amarius
Joined Feb 23, 2012
7 points
Apr 22, 2013
...
Change your stupid technique and you won't have this problem. Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Apr 22, 2013
Me
thanks for the info guys, but I am traveling and have no climbing parners and only my half rope.

come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon.
Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 22, 2013
...
"come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon."

You can get a Mini traxion for well UNDER $200.00. There are also many other devices that can be used for the same purpose that you can pick up cheap on EBAY and HERE and in the back seat of that idiots car with all the climbing stickers on it (Not suggesting you rip anyone off. "Just saying").



PS...

I personally value my life more than $200.00. (Like $200.01 for instance)
But to each their own!
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Apr 22, 2013
Take your life into your OWN hands. Go free solo something, we're all gonna die. The lucky ones do it on their own terms. SavageMarmot
From Nederland, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
197 points
Apr 22, 2013
Me
Locker wrote:
"come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon." You can get a Mini traxion for well UNDER $200.00. There are also many other devices that can be used for the same purpose that you can pick up cheap on EBAY and HERE and in the back seat of that idiots car with all the climbing stickers on it (Not suggesting you rip anyone off. "Just saying"). PS... I personally value my life more than $200.00. (Like $200.01 for instance) But to each their own!


Yea well 5 haven't really got 100$ let alone two. For real, what are some other ways to top rope solo with nothing more than a rope and a reverso 3
Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 22, 2013
...
Prusik with a DYNEEMA sling, for a REAL treat.

;-)
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Apr 22, 2013
Me
Locker wrote:
Prusik with a DYNEEMA sling, for a REAL treat. ;-)



Yea, real fun treat.
Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 22, 2013
Me
I like having the rope kinda free so I can climb all ove the place. Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Administrator
Apr 22, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
<- wonders if a new charity thread for another rope solo device is coming... Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,420 points
Apr 22, 2013
...
I was going to suggest tying it around your neck but figured that might not go over real well.

Another suggesting is GET A FUCKING JOB so you can afford PROPER gear!




Don't you fucking HATE when douchebags write that shit? I know I do!

LOL!
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Apr 22, 2013
Me
Locker wrote:
I was going to suggest tying it around your neck but figured that might not go over real well. Another suggesting is GET A FUCKING JOB so you can afford PROPER gear! Don't you fucking HATE when douchebags write that shit? I know I do! LOL!


Isn't that what people following a route are ment to do?

get a job-meh-they won't let me work in this shitire country they call the USA- whats a lad to do?
Gwut
Joined Mar 17, 2013
80 points
Apr 22, 2013
...
Dude if you were around here I'd loan you one of my Mini Traxions.

I feel for you!
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points


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