|529 page views|
50' left of Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) is a wide crack to squeeze chimney. Rap any of the multiple anchors on this wall.
#2-5 Camalots (the small stuff for an anchor).
|By Matt Richardson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 19, 2009
This route starts about 100 yds to the left of the Friday the 13th Buttress and is apparent by the gaping start of the off width about 30' up (the so-called Knothole). Start in a left leaning chimney that will probably go at about 5.4. Follow this for about 30' to a ledge. Notice the gaping maw of the crack above that you will be struggling to jam your tired body into. This thing definitely deserves a picture. The crack here is wide and deep, tapering down into pure offwidth misery. Here is where the climbing begins. And it is wide here - I was able to stuff a wobble-y #4 tied to a #3.5 before starting. Shimmy your way up using your offwidth arsenal honed on lesser cracks. After some effort, the angle begins to ease and it would take a missile to knock you out of the crack. Belay at the top. I am not sure what rap anchors are referred to here, but there is a walk off to the southwest that will get you back to the base quickly and easily.
I am not sure what to rate this really. This route spit off two that were following me (one couldn't make it past the bulge and the other had to pull on gear) and both made it up Lower Slot Right (also an offwidth) with little difficulty. This route was strenuous which made it difficult to assess the actual technical aspect of it. That being said, Kelman has it down as 8 in his Heel Toe guide.
Big gear does well for much of the route. I had singles to a #5 C4 and I used all of the big stuff.
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2013
A #5 can be placed from standing on top of a pointed block just before the difficulties. Then grunt up toward the horizontal on the left that will take gear since the crack is now too big for a # 6. This felt no harder than Handjacker.