Another fun little sport climb in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. This route ascends inviting huecos up a slightly bulging face in the Court, an alcove on the South side of Der Zerkle, a short way past Square Rock. From NCAR, hike up the Mallory Cave Trail until this route is visible on your right.
Power up a fun, slightly-bulging wall with a dihedral and roof past 3 bolts and left to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Touch Monkey). There is a loose flake here. This route felt slightly committing for a sport climb. Just to the left of this route is another slightly harder, bolted route, Touch Monkey.
3 QDs for 3 bolts and slings for the anchor.
|By Willie Mein|
Dec 20, 2004
The responsible party was doing some maintenance on these routes by replacing old rusted bolts that were installed without the use of epoxy in the 1980s.
These bolts unscrew from a sleeve that is in the rock and do not require any pry bar or other lever to remove them. There has been no damage to natural or climbing resources. Although, it is clear that the intentions were good (as the old bolts were rusted and unsafe), the responsible party has been informed that a "Notification for Bolt Replacement" form must be obtained from the City OSMP to do this. This can be obtained online at www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/visitor/climbing/bolt-replace>>>
At this point, it would be possible to simply screw the old bolts back into the rusted anchor sleeves and restore the climbs. However, a "Notification for Bolt Replacement" will be submitted to OSMP and the maintenance on these routes may be completed. If you are interested in assiting with the replacement, stay tuned.
Feb 14, 2005
As of Feb. 13th, Knot Carrot has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.
Feb 14, 2005
I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best possible manner - just that this gear is new and as yet completely unused.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I thought this route was harder than Touch Monkey and certainly more committing. You have to stretch to make the first clip with a bad landing and then to exit the dihedral is tough. Further up, you have to climb some moves while you are pumped just to reach the next bolts. Fun no less, but a more serious undertaking than its nearby neighbors.
|By Cody Munger|
From: Carson City, NV
Aug 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
The bolts seemed like they were in a good spots that were quite reachable. If you look to the right on the crux moves, there is an excellent jug that makes the crux much easier. If you're blinded by chalk, then this hold will be invisible. The traverse left from the second bolt looked pretty scary, so we went straight up instead and placed a medium stopper at the ridge at the top.
|By Robbie the Dog|
Jul 5, 2009
I only found two bolts on this. We went to the top, placing a few pieces on the way, then traversed to the anchors on Touch Monkey. It made the whole endeavor safe, but a bit perplexing.
From: Boulder, Co
May 2, 2010
The flake housing the right hand crimp of the crux (between 1st and 2nd bolt) came off today. It still goes with little change in difficulty of the maneuver.
|By George Bracksieck|
Jun 11, 2012
From the good sidepull right of the first bolt, I reached way up and right, past the chalked crimp (where the flake broke off?), to a chalkless slanting rail. From it, I could reach into the top of the dihedral and then the undercling. Clipping the second bolt is unnecessarily committing, unless you pre-hang a long sling from it. Do TM first.
|By Chris Rinaldo|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2012
After pulling through the roof there are some stopper placements out left (#3-5). I traversed to the last bolt on Touch Monkey and then straight to the anchors. With the stopper in place, this felt very safe.