Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Knome Dome aka Water Dome

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Heels over Heads T 
Kiddo Climb S 
River Madness T,S 
Sleeping Beauty S 
Tourists and Fishermen S 
Water Babies S 
Waterslide S 

Knome Dome aka Water Dome  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 5,788
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Schmausser on May 20, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Matt Bruton and the alternate summertime approach ...

Description 

Sunny 'til mid afternoon, this is a great place to take the kids climbing. Mostly easy bolted routes. Ten draws and a 50 meter rope will cover all but one climb. My wife loves to take a book and a portable chair and suntan here.

Getting There 

Essentially the larger right hand mass of the dome that hosts the Spray Wall, the Water Dome located 2.1 miles past the pay station at the canyon entrance. Park as for the Spray Wall, walk down past the Spray Wall and around the corner to the dome.

L->R: 

Per Rich F:

A. Waterslide, 8, (blue)-- follows kind of an inverse J shape. Good route. Basically a slab climb, but well protected by the bolts. Crux between 2nd and 4th bolts. Anchors below the lip.
B. Sleeping Beauty, 7, (red) -- fun climb. Basically goes straight up and over a small bulge/roof which is well protected with a bolt. Anchors about 10' past the bulge. Worth climbing!
C. Left (easy) start to "Heels Over Heads" (green) -- bolts angle up and right from just to the right of Sleeping Beauty. Looks like an alternate (easier -- maybe 5.7) way to get to the "Heels Over Head" crack through the large roof. Did not climb it, but looked doable.
D. Water Babies, 11, (blue) -- not sure of the name, but it is VERY difficult, near vertical, slab climbing at the bottom half. Could probably be top roped from the "Tourist" anchors.
E. Right start to "Heels Over Heads" AKA "River Madness", 5.10, (red) -- this was tough slab climbing thru the first 3 or 4 bolts (I toproped it from the "Tourist" anchors and slipped numerous times). After about 20' of climbing, the route becomes easier and there are better placements for feet and hands. I'd rate the top half at a fun 5.7, but it's hard to get up there.
F. Tourists and Fishermen, 8, (green) -- angles to the right for first 15 feet, then goes straight up to the anchors. There was one hard move (5.8) where it turns to go up (but my wife made it look easy!) This is also a fun climb worth doing. The anchors can be used to toprope the harder technical routes on the left.
G. Kiddo Climb, 5, (purple) -- on the far right side of the wall. Easy climb, with closely-spaced bolts. Would make an easy first lead.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Knome Dome aka Water Dome:
Sleeping Beauty   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tourists and Fishermen   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Heels over Heads   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Water Babies   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Knome Dome aka Water Dome

Featured Route For Knome Dome aka Water Dome
Brenda just past the crux of "Tourists and Fi...

Tourists and Fishermen 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : South Platte : ... : Knome Dome aka Water Dome
A nice bolted line, fourth from the left on the rock, last before the easy route on the right....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Knome Dome aka Water Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Knome Dome Sport Routes (Based on what I climbed i...
BETA PHOTO: Knome Dome Sport Routes (Based on what I climbed i...
Knome Dome route map.
BETA PHOTO: Knome Dome route map.
Cool down.
Cool down.

Comments on Knome Dome aka Water Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Carlino
Jul 22, 2006
Visited Water Dome for the first time today. The cleanest approach is to Spray Wall and onward as described above. Unfortunately, there are plenty of sticker bushes to slow you down. Around the corner from Spray Wall, you have to do some rock-hopping over the water and go up a low-angle ramp. Sandals would make this easier as the water was just about shoe depth. At the top of the ramp is a nice area with berries ready to eat.

Water Dome is pretty big and has 4 or 5 routes.

The first route you come to heads up some boulders to the first bolt. Then it heads left ten feet to the main line. Around bolt 2 or 3 this climb is fairly thin and wasn't super easy. To the left of the bolts is a mini-ridge that's not easy to see when climbing. There are a few holds on it and without it, would make for a very thin face. 6 or 7 bolts total to a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings.

The second route begins 20 feet right and goes up the middle of the face. It's interesting due to a roof that must be ascended to get to the anchors. Protection is good over the roof.

The next route looked more vertical with wider spaced bolts. Didn't study it very much. The last route on the main wall looked to be a little more easy, but we didn't get to climb it. On the far right wall looked to be one more route. It ends at chains that you can see hanging in free space.

It'd be great to see these routes and what their actual grade is.
By Ang
From: Littleton, CO
Jul 29, 2006
We were just there today, and between today and our last visit a few weeks ago, we have climbed 5 of the 7 routes. It is a fun spot to climb and a great place to practice slab technique. It also has easy access to the river if it gets too hot!

Here would be our opinoins (and please don't take them too literally)as to the ratings of and info about the climbs we have done. If nothing else, maybe it would help you find the easier to harder climbs.
From left to right: (Please note - numbers are not climb names, but just for convenience.)
1: The first climb has some fun exposure we would put it at probably a 5.6. There is one little thin spot.
2: This one was easier - maybe a 5.5? It is very well-protected, especially at the above mentioned roof.
3 and 4: We couldn't see the entire bolt line from the ground, and we didn't have time for them all anyway!
5: This is definitely the hardest route we climbed on the wall. There is a pretty tough section in the lower half of the climb (between 1st and 3rd bolts). Maybe a 5.7 or even an 8?
6: The next climb again was easier. It is well-protected and is closer to a 5.5. Note: 5 and 6 lead to the same set of bolts. If you are less comfortable on slab, you could lead this one and then toprope the one to the left.
7: The last route is certainly the easiest climb on the rock we climbed - we are thinking 5.4? It is also well protected and a fun climb. Watch out for large flake at top - may be detached so be careful.
Hope this helps to anyone else interested, and we would love feedback from the FA's or other climbers as to ratings and names.
By Buff Johnson
May 28, 2007
Oh boy, well is there any way to keep this dome fixed protected as it currently is (excluding the trad lines)? It seems like a lot of fun to sport around with.
By Girasol
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 16, 2007
Here are my comments on the routes that three of us did today (indicated by the date 10-16-07 above the comment). We climbed these in the reverse order of the numbers (starting with 7 and ending with 1). We crossed the river below (to the right/North of) the wall. The water was low, so it was fairly easy and faster to cross rather than take the bushwhacking path from further upstream. We found the hardest part was crossing the river (some of us were more graceful on the rock crossing than others) to get back to the car! It would be good to see some additional opinions on the ratings from other people.

1: The first climb has some fun exposure we would put it at probably a 5.6. There is one little thin spot.

10-16-07
By this time I was freezing with blue lips and cold feet, so I skipped this one. You will have to ask my partners about it. A flipped “J” curved route, which requires a bit of a traverse to the left at the beginning. From below/belaying, it looked a little slabby and blank (even a little slippery – the two others who climbed it almost slid backward) once you got past the first or second bolt. I also didn’t care for the long drop to the river below. But as long as you have a good belay, I am sure it is fine.

2: This one was easier - maybe a 5.5? It is very well-protected, especially at the above mentioned roof.

10-16-07
Fun route! Maybe a 5.6, especially for the roof move and above the last bolt to the anchor.

3 and 4: We couldn't see the entire bolt line from the ground, and we didn't have time for them all anyway!

10-16-07
We skipped these also. We could see the anchor about 20+ feet above the roof and crack that went up from the roof, but did not spot any bolts on or above the roof. Appears to be a bit of a runout.

5: This is definitely the hardest route we climbed on the wall. There is a pretty tough section in the lower half of the climb (between 1st and 3rd bolts). Maybe a 5.7 or even an 8?

10-16-07
Lower half is more like a 5.8+-5.9 (top half is more like 5.6ish). The bottom half is close to vertical and has very crimpy tiny fingers or otherwise very small hands and small feet. Slippery and blankish between 2nd and 3rd bolts – all three of us sat on the rope here at least once. But never fear, it is doable (though a good challenging face climb) and you are rewarded for the first half by the second half. The small ledges up higher seem like bomber jug mega-holds after the bottom half! What a blast!

6: The next climb again was easier. It is well-protected and is closer to a 5.5. Note: 5 and 6 lead to the same set of bolts. If you are less comfortable on slab, you could lead this one and then toprope the one to the left.

10-16-07
I would rate this a 5.5-5.6.

7: The last route is certainly the easiest climb on the rock we climbed - we are thinking 5.4? It is also well protected and a fun climb. Watch out for large flake at top - may be detached so be careful.

10-16-07
Nice, well-protected, easy climb (5.4-5.5?). The flakes up top both seemed pretty solid, though there’s a nice gap between parts of them and the face. A little bit of a reach to the anchor/chains (bolts and chains looked very new) at the end. Overall, a good first sport lead route or warmup.

I hope that my two partners from today will also comment! Feel free to ask any questions.
girasolgrl@rockclimbing.com
By Larry C. Schubarth
From: colorado springs, colorado
Apr 1, 2009
Tell em' Pete. If I'm not mistaken,the first route and the naming of the rock was first done by Robert Karolick, Bob Somonette and yours truly in the early '70s. the route, "The Bloody Nit" ascents a prominent flake up the middle of the face and over the roof above.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 20, 2010
Climbed the Knome Dome routes today. Have found the info here a little confusing. So I have posted a photo and homemade route map. Below are descriptions, referring to the images I posted.

Routes from Left to Right:
1. Waterslide (5.8) (shown in blue)-- follows kind of an inverse J shape. Good route. Basically a slab climb, but well protected by the bolts. Crux between 2nd and 4th bolts. Anchors below the lip.

2. Sleeping Beauty (5.7) (shown in red) -- fun climb. Basically goes straight up and over a small bulge/roof which is well protected with a bolt. Anchors about 10 ft past the bulge. Worth climbing!

3. Left (easy) start to "Heels Over Heads" (shown in green) -- bolts angle up and right from just to the right of Sleeping Beauty. Looks like an alternate (easier -- maybe 5.7) way to get to the "Heels Over Head" crack through the large roof. Did not climb it, but looked doable.

4. Water Babies(5.11)(shown in blue) -- not sure of the name, but it is VERY difficult, near vertical, slab climbing at the bottom half. Could probably be top roped from the "Tourist" anchors.

5. Right start to "Heels Over Heads" AKA "River Madness" (5.10) (Shown in red) -- this was tough slab climbing thru the first 3 or 4 bolts (I toproped it from the "Tourist" anchors and slipped numerous times). After about 20 ft of climbing, the route becomes easier and there are better placements for feet and hands. I'd rate the top half at a fun 5.7, but it's hard to get up there.

6. Tourists and Fishermen (5.8) (Shown in green) -- angles to the right for first 15 feet, then goes straight up to the anchors. There was one hard move (5.8) where it turns to go up (but my wife made it look easy!) This is also a fun climb worth doing. The anchors can be used to toprope the harder technical routes on the left.

7. Kiddo Climb (5.5) (shown in purple) -- on the far right side of the wall. Easy climb, with closely spaced bolts. Would make an easy first lead.

Regarding the above descriptions and routes -- I do not know if these are the actual names and ratings or not. It's the best I could figure out based on my climbs today and the info I found here in Mtn Project.
By JohnEdsonStagg
From: Evergreen, CO
May 28, 2013
Found a set of car keys for a GMC vehicle on 5/26/2013 at the Knome Dome. Call John at 303-550-1820.