This is the cliff across from Hurricane Crag on Route 9N. The cliff faces north, so has reliable ice until late in the season. It has several really good routes, such as Unexpected Pleasure, and Magic Line. Some hard mixed stuff too.
From the intersection of Route 9N and Route 73 in Keene, drive east on Route 9N for 4.5 miles. Look for the cliff up and right and park anywhere.
Drop over the guardrail, cross the stream, and head uphill to the cliff. No special landmarks. It takes about 30 minutes.
Climbing Season For the Adirondack Ice Climbing area.
Weather station 8.3 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Knob Lock
Too Tight for Pleasure
WI4 M3 NY
: ... : Knob Lock
If you like super tight chimneys, this one is for you. It's really a variation to Unexpected Pleasure, as it shares the first section of that route.P1: Go up the easy ice flow and into the gully. Continue up the gully to a tree belay on the left. Continue another 20', then break out of the gully on the right (1 awkward move here). Traverse right 30' to the base -- a position below the tight chimney 30' above you.P2: Climb over a bulge and up another bulge to the entrance to the hanging chimney. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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