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Knights of the Wrong Tissue 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger - 1983
Season: Year round
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Dec 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Mark starting on Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12...

Description 

Like many of the climbs on the wall, this one begins pretty thin and becomes more featured on the way to the anchors. The path is somewhat circuitous and takes some figuring out. Along the way there are plenty of crimps, jugs, a few rests, even some mantling and a slab finish thrown in for good measure.

Location 

This route begins midway down the wall. The start is easily found as it begins off of a large slab boulder that meets the base of the wall. If you can see the top of the wall you can also find the route as it has a set of black cold shuts as anchors.

Protection 

9 bolts to cold shut anchors.

Hardware replaced Feb 2015 by Luke Bertelsen using ASCA equipment.


Photos of Knights of the Wrong Tissue Slideshow Add Photo
Relaxing in the scoop.
Relaxing in the scoop.

Comments on Knights of the Wrong Tissue Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2015
By Luke Bertelsen
Dec 30, 2013

I personally think this is an under the radar classic Lemmon sport climb. If you have climbed Tsunami, New Wave, Time the Avenger, Honker, etc. you need to add this to the list of climbs you are happy to do more than once.

Unfortunately the last round of road construction left the gully a bit of a mess. Take care when hiking down to the climbs.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 10, 2014

Definitely an under-the-radar classic. There's even some history- when I did it there were a couple bolts with bed frame hangers! The movement through the giant scoop is really cool.
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
May 28, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is definitely under the radar, but really shouldn't be. Great climbing with interesting moves, and even some jugs thrown in to keep your finger tendons happy.

The hike down from the pullout isn't too bad either. Just carefully scramble down the West face of Knights wall. If you are standing under the Golden Egg, hike back up hill towards the highway, and then head down when you can fully see the wall. Watch out for loose gravel, and sharp things. Should take you under 5 minutes.

Get on it eh?
By Jeffrey Hyman
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
May 28, 2014

This route is a hog's farm worth of fun. If you are looking for a 12- mid-mtn, this should be on your list.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 16, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Thanks for the hardware upgrade Luke. I added a note to the route description.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 17, 2015

Way to go Luke!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 17, 2015

Yeah Luke!!!

Do you have any before/after pics? Thanks!
By Luke Bertelsen
Feb 18, 2015

I will have to remember before and after for the next route I visit for hardware updates.

I wanted to work on this route for awhile and it was kind of a tester for me in terms of the time investment to update an entire route. Pretty sure I clocked in at around 4 hours all said and done.
By Jimbo
Feb 19, 2015

Strong work Luke!

If it took you four hours to replace the bolts on this you need better power tools. 18 volt cut off wheels, and one of Geir's awesome bolt puller rigs would do you fine and save you time.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 22, 2015

Four hours start to finish seems about right as I don't think you can walk to the top. Seems reasonable for a person who has put in a 10,000 less bolts than you and is just figuring it out. Final word, BOSONS SEAT!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 25, 2015

Thanks for the hard work Luke. I will have my bolt puller in town shortly and hopefully it will help make the work easier.
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