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Knight's Move 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,687
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 12, 2006

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Description 

This is the easiest way to the top of the cliff from Wiessner.

From the ledge at the top of the slab, downclimb underneath the boulder wedged in the crack on the right side of the ledge and step onto a small traverse ledge leading right. Not hard, but sort of strange. The bolt above you (if in place) marks Knight's Gambit. Ignore it.

Follow this ledge right (easy but exposed) to its end and pull up a short boulder problem.

You're now crossing Wet Wall. Climb up and take the right-hand set of corners to the top. Or follow Wet Wall on the left.

It can be hard to protect the second on the traverse. I drop the other end of the rope down to protect the initial moves where the route goes down and around the boulder when I have a beginner on this route.


Location 

At the top of Wiessner Slab


Protection 

Standard traprock rack



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By Kurtz
Nov 18, 2013

The bolt is long gone.

The crux is just after the traverse. A bit stout for 5.4 IMHO.

Easiest to protect the second's traverse when led with double ropes. After the crux, move up and left (off-route). Place a cam high over the traverse and clip one rope. Yeah, it's off-route, but easy to place and clean.

The Fasulo book indicates that K.M. stays left in the right-facing corner and doesn't actually cross Wet Wall (which it says goes up the to the right). This makes sense, especially on a busy day.