Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Scott Kimball and Chip Salaun, 1979 |
Page Views: | 3,066 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Luke Clarke on Sep 14, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route ascends the south face, a short way around the corner from Orange Julius. It appears to not see a lot of activity even though it has a sweet hand crack and three different 9+ cruxes. Look for the first chimney (as you move east to west), just west of the Foxhead, a large squarish formation at the southeast corner of the Bookend.
P1. Find an easy start behind a tree up to a short easy handcrack. Surmount that to a ledge that leads into the chimney. Climb the chimney past a bolt on the face and get good gear at the left edge of the chimney and traverse left (or clip the bolt and traverse lower) for a spooky 5.9 move or two to the base of perfect Lumpy hand and foot crack. Jam for 40 feet to a stance. Traverse right and downward (9+) to a belay inside the chimney. (The bolted line tempting you up and left to chains is a 10d variation).
P2. Climb a wide easy flare (with lots of fat gear placements) until the crack closes at an overhang and obvious 9+ crux. A comfy belay pod is to the right after you solve this.
P3. Wander up and left (west) through wide flares and discontinuous cracks (5.7 or 5.8) to the base of an all too obvious chimney.
P4. Grunt on up the 5.7 chimney and then run the rope out as far as possible on easy ground.
P5. Another pitch (or simul-climbing) on easy ground is required to top out and descend as for Ancient Mariner.
P1. Find an easy start behind a tree up to a short easy handcrack. Surmount that to a ledge that leads into the chimney. Climb the chimney past a bolt on the face and get good gear at the left edge of the chimney and traverse left (or clip the bolt and traverse lower) for a spooky 5.9 move or two to the base of perfect Lumpy hand and foot crack. Jam for 40 feet to a stance. Traverse right and downward (9+) to a belay inside the chimney. (The bolted line tempting you up and left to chains is a 10d variation).
P2. Climb a wide easy flare (with lots of fat gear placements) until the crack closes at an overhang and obvious 9+ crux. A comfy belay pod is to the right after you solve this.
P3. Wander up and left (west) through wide flares and discontinuous cracks (5.7 or 5.8) to the base of an all too obvious chimney.
P4. Grunt on up the 5.7 chimney and then run the rope out as far as possible on easy ground.
P5. Another pitch (or simul-climbing) on easy ground is required to top out and descend as for Ancient Mariner.
1 Comment