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The Bookend
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Blood Feud 
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner 
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Knight's Gambit 
Knight's Gambit Variation 
Labor of Lust 
Orange Julius 
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Unsorted Routes:

Knight's Gambit Variation 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

Type: Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Smedley, Larsen, and Anderson 1983
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 29, 2009
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This variation to Knight's Gambit is a great one pitch route with a good mix of different sytles of climbing. It should be adding to your one pitch cragging list for the area.

Follow a short, right-facing dihedral and then angle right to a short chimney with a hand crack. Follow the thin hands crack to the obvious traverse left at an old bolt. A 3 foot sling on your last piece in the crack is recommended. A 5.9+ face traverse past an old bolt (smallest TCU) leads to a fun, Lumpy-style, hand crack. This will deposit you below the final crux slab moves. They are protected by a 25 year old 1/4 incher, which is below you as you pull the crux. If this fails (R rating), a nice sloping ledge awaits your ankles. This is probably not a good route to push your limits on.

A modern 2 bolt anchor will put you on the ground (100 feet).


The KGV is found on the south face of the Bookend.


Rack to 3 inches.

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