This variation to Knight's Gambit is a great one pitch route with a good mix of different sytles of climbing. It should be adding to your one pitch cragging list for the area.
Follow a short, right-facing dihedral and then angle right to a short chimney with a hand crack. Follow the thin hands crack to the obvious traverse left at an old bolt. A 3 foot sling on your last piece in the crack is recommended. A 5.9+ face traverse past an old bolt (smallest TCU) leads to a fun, Lumpy-style, hand crack. This will deposit you below the final crux slab moves. They are protected by a 25 year old 1/4 incher, which is below you as you pull the crux. If this fails (R rating), a nice sloping ledge awaits your ankles. This is probably not a good route to push your limits on.
A modern 2 bolt anchor will put you on the ground (100 feet).
The KGV is found on the south face of the Bookend.
Rack to 3 inches.
|Comments on Knight's Gambit Variation