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O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
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Knights-Errant 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 870', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross Sir Chris Bonington (Var Leads) Oct 9th 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,402
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 13, 2007

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Paul Ross on the horn belay at the top of the seco...

Description 

Starts up the slab above and to the left(South)of the entrance to Three Fingers Canyon. About a 3 minute walk from ones truck.A good adventure route with fine situations.

(P1. Climb the slab to a slanting crack up to the right At one point step up out of the indefinite crack and up a slab to a good ledge and double anchors. 190'5.6
(P2.Move belay along the ledge for about 100' to a bolt anchor below the big groove. Climb corner and slab into the main groove(good pro in the groove)Climb the groove then exit via the right wall up and around the corner.Easy traverse right ,then up short crack and back left to double anchors on top of the protruding horn.160'5.7.
(P3 High step into easy open groove and follow to double anchors. 150' 5.4/5
(P4.From belay move directly left and climb into the obvious groove above. Follow groove on its right edge past a pro bolt up to double anchors on a good ledge.170'5.8
(P5. Up slab on the right then move back up to the left and follow grooves to the summit cairn (register)and double anchors. (Rap anchors of the route Gordian Knot).200'5.4.

Descent:-One can Rap down the steep Gordian Knot ,but much easier to walk up the slabs south for about 200' to find double anchors on the left edge above the route "Come Up Pence". Three Raps to the ground.


Location 

Starts on the left(south) side of Three Fingers Canyon. The climb goes diagonally right up the slab towards the skyline arete.


Protection 

Cams from 1/4" to 3.5 Friend. Stoppers. Slings Two 60m ropes



Photos of Knights-Errant Slideshow Add Photo
Chris on Second Pitch
Chris on Second Pitch
Paul and Chris on the summit
Paul and Chris on the summit
Chris topping out on the 190' first pitch.
Chris topping out on the 190' first pitch.
Steve on belay .top of pitch 2. Photo Patrick Moe
Steve on belay .top of pitch 2. Photo Patrick Moe
Desert Camp. L to R Layne Potter, Chris Bonington, Andy Ross ,Jim Howe.
Desert Camp. L to R Layne Potter, Chris Bonington,...
Tele/photo of Chris and Paul by Andy Ross. Paul on belay Chris starting pitch 3
Tele/photo of Chris and Paul by Andy Ross. Paul on...
The route of Knights Errant. Most of the 190' first pitch is not shown
The route of Knights Errant. Most of the 190' firs...
Showing the upper pitches of Knights-Errant. Click to enlarge
Showing the upper pitches of Knights-Errant. Click...
Steve Rydach on second ascent of Knights Errant P2. Photo Patrick Moe
Steve Rydach on second ascent of Knights Errant P2...
Paul at the top of the 190' first pitch. Photo Layne Potter
Paul at the top of the 190' first pitch. Photo Lay...
Tele photo from "1000' of Fun" of Patrick Moe at the top of Knights Errant
Tele photo from "1000' of Fun" of Patrick Moe at t...
Comments on Knights-Errant Add Comment
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By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 13, 2007

"Knights Errant":-Webster's Dictionary of the English Language.....a mounted knight who traveled in search of chivalrous adventures! Chris does not use his title on climbs...and to say the least he is far from being a stuffy British Knight. It was my insistence to help illustrate the name of the climb "Knights Errant"

By Brian in SLC
Oct 15, 2007

Sounds like, "once a Knight is enough". Ha ha.
Cheers!

By Stephen Carlos Rydalch
From: Golden, CO
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Notes from the 2nd ascent: 10/3/2009

What a great climb! The second pitch of this route is unforgettable, easily among my favorites in the swell. Highly recommended:

P1 - Follow the easiest line to the large ledge that is about 200 feet off the ground. There is a right leaning crack roughly 100 feet up that you'll want to gain, and that is also the first real protection. Easy 5.5 climbing to the first pro, 5.6 after that.

From the P1 belay bolts walk (literally) 100 feet right along the ledge to a single pro bolt. This is your belay for p2.

P2 - Follow Paul's description into the gully. Your goal is to climb above the large block, and then to traverse right under the horn. After passing underneath the horn, follow a short crack to a belay anchor on the horn. There is a lot of good natural protection. Extra double-length runners are helpful to manage rope drag.

p3 - straightforward, easy 5.4 climbing.

P4 - we deviated from the original route here on accident. Paul's description "From belay move directly left and climb into the obvious groove above" is literal. DO NOT climb into the dirty groove directly above the belay, instead take the less intuitive line to the immediate left of the belay and into the groove that follows. Attempting to climb the groove straight above the belay results in an unprotected traverse across the face before reaching the next belay bolts.

p5 - straightforward, easy 5.4 climbing.

We took a single standard rack of nuts and cams up to a #3 C4. We also took a red and yellow c3, which were used on the first pitch. Small nuts or tricams would suffice as well.

This route is a classic! A must do if you are near 3 fingers.

By mark homden
Nov 27, 2009

Pretty bloody fun route. The second pitch is awesome with the pitches above a little less desirable. From here on in I'm just going to do Bonnington routes as that old bugger has an eye for a line. Nice work Paul, I've been having some good adventures down on your slabs.

By L. Hamilton
Oct 14, 2010

We had fun making the 5th ascent. The adventure level on this route felt higher than popular Red Rock climbs at the grade. You can't rappel the route after P1.

A few other words of wisdom:

  • Two days after an October rain is not long enough for the sand to dry back into sandstone.
  • Be prepared to start each pitch with a runout on moderate but sandy or breakable rock.
  • Wandering up P2 to the horn belay is a 5.7 adventure in itself.
  • As noted above, P4 starts up the steep wall out left from the belay.
  • The Comeuppance rappels would be tough to find in the dark, allow enough time to scout around for each of the three anchors.
  • After 3 double-rope rappels, there remains some scrambling to reach the ground -- easy but best done in daylight.

By greg t
May 27, 2013

The first two pitches are fantastic! The start of the 4th pitch is kind of a sketchy ledge fall situation. I broke off a large hold and bailed. The climbing could be harder now without the hold. I recommend you climb the first two pitches, bring some bail biners, then go solo 1000ft of fun for a well rounded day.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jul 18, 2013

Good effort Greg on these routes.. The forth pitch is a bit out there near its top..