Type: Aid
FA: [Matt Buckner and James J. Funsten VI, mid 1990s]
Page Views: 3,893 total · 14/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Sep 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a challenging aid route up the blank wall between Jackson's Wall Direct and Englishman's Home. There are several sections of tenuous and continuous heading, or at least sections of fixed heads. Off the top of my head I can't think of anything else in Boulder Canyon that offers as sustained and sheer an aid line as this. The climbing could be half-way up El Cap if it wasn't for the smell of exhaust from cars driving by below the crag.

Begin on the Jackson's Wall Direct, but where that route hand traverse left continue up and right through some arches, then head up to the top of the second pitch of Never a Dull Moment and belay. Now follow tiny, improbable features that connect the blank wall between Athlete's Feat and Country Club. Belay at a ledge 30 feet left of Country Club's anchors.

Protection Suggest change

There may be lots of fixed heads scattered about on this climb, but bring a selection of heads, including circle heads, some hooks, a beak or 2, same with rurps, RPs, and a full rack to 3.5" cam (you may not use it all). You may want to have a few blades, LAs, and baby angles along, but this is not a piton-intensive route. Helmet.

Photos

loading