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 ADVANCED
West Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charon's Boat S 
Dragon Direct T 
Knight of Swords S 
Merlin's Enigma S 
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 

Knight of Swords 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter (roped solo), 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jan 1, 2005

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Yvonne moving up to the second bolt.
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Description 

This route ascends the steep, west-facing wall just up and right from Charon's Boat. Start a short distance up the gully at a big block with a J-shaped tree.

Climb straight out of the gully via sidepulls and gain a series of underclings. The steep initial moves may be avoided by stemming across from a huge block to clip the second bolt. This is a pretty good route either way.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Lower off.



Photos of Knight of Swords Slideshow Add Photo
Yvonne pulling onto the wall at the start.
Yvonne pulling onto the wall at the start.
Knight of Swords.  Start about 25' uphill from Charon's Boat.  Stem off a huge boulder to make the first clip and pull onto the wall.  Climb the steep and sustained face which eases near the top.
BETA PHOTO: Knight of Swords. Start about 25' uphill from Cha...
Yvonne at the undercling by the first bolt.
Yvonne at the undercling by the first bolt.
Yvonne starting the route clean-up, wire brush and whisk broom in hand.
Yvonne starting the route clean-up, wire brush and...
Comments on Knight of Swords Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A fun route that's well worth doing; steep and sustained with varied moves all the way up.

I was able to clip the second bolt from the stem off the huge boulder; shorter climbers may have difficulty making the clip before committing to the wall. I did not try the direct start, avoiding the stem off the boulder.

Avoid a loose block on the left just below the top.

My partner cleaned up the route with a wire brush and whisk broom on the way down, but the route could still use more cleaning.

By Richard Rossiter
Jul 21, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Note to the mp.com folks...I am offically changing the name of this route to the KNIGHT OF SWORDS (an afterthought), as it is one of several ways you can reach Dragon Slayer. I think the sword has been the traditional weapon for slaying dragons. Thank you and keep up the great work. This website is not only very useful, but is a lot of fun. By the way, climb this route straight up out of the gully and it has a new crux.

By Eliza
May 8, 2008

What is this route rated if you do a direct start and do not use the boulder off to the side to start at the second bolt? We did it that way and thought it was pretty hard, at least an 11.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

It didn't even occur to me to use the block back behind me.... I thought the route was probably hard 10/easy 11, and the hardest part was getting the second clip. If you are limited in ability to 5.10, you really should get that second bolt clipped or do the stem back... it would suck to blow that clip!

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Sep 12, 2010

Thanks, RR, for all the work up this way, very beautiful setting. This route was probably the best of the ones I got on.

Seems pretty clean at this point, the only thing that seemed concerning was the fractured lower part of the giant, left-facing flake at mid-height; however, I can't really imagine how it could be pulled on to break it out from behind the solid flake.

I definitely agree w/ TB that if you're not feeling very solid, stick clip or lean across and climb the first section w/ the 2nd bolt clipped. It would be very unlikely to walk away unscathed if you blow the 2nd clip. I also agree that if you charge straight up from the ground it will feel a little stiff for a 10.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Oct 3, 2011

The block behind is in no way part of the route. Thus it has been decreed. Nor is the tree on the route, nor is anything on the route that is not on the face. I agree with the Tony B, the Bubbster, in that the route is 10d/11a and the crux is the second bolt. The block at the top is attached only with an amalgam of dirt and lichen, so don't grab it. To get to the second bolt, I recommend the beta from my partner, which is to layback on the left-facing flake at the bottom and work the feet up on small edges doing a left/right-crossover/left.

By mrbiscoop
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The loose block is to the left as you move from last bolt to the anchor. Lots of painful sharp holds. Direct start is 10d/11a.